Mike, without having to read all 200+ replies of the other threads, why are you going through all this. Is it due to a valve length issue, getting your heads decked, or is it just the new cam?

I'm curious if this is as big of an issue if I were just to install the 227, or GM845 with stock heads, and keep 7.2" stock length pushrods. (I have 7/16" 4501-16 Comp studs, and 1.6 NSA Pro Mags right now)

Dan

 

The one thing that all this extra analysis for the mid-lift approach shows is that you can't really
go wrong with 7.20" pushrods, even with milled heads and longer valves. I just ordered 7.30"
pushrods and will give them a try but for most this exercise is not necessary. For the big
HP motors and that last .0x second at the track it's important, but not for a daily driver. I'm just
a bit to AR about the whole thing and had to see it through.

What made the whole effort worth while for me was reviewing the pictures and seeing the
difference in the rockers. Without the side by side comparison you would think centering the roller
pattern on the valve tip is the way to go. The pictures show just how far off things get when you
shorten pushrods instead of minimizing the width of the roller contact pattern.

You will be just fine with 7.20" pushrods.

 

The one thing that I need to do that I prefer not to is put the washer below the guideplate.
With the ARP washer it should not be an issue. The reason is that the ARP rocker studs that I
have are the ones with the shank under the hex to locate the guideplates and the .438" ID
washers will not work on top. I'm sure it will be fine.

The other dimension to watch out for is the OD of the washer so that it clears the head bolts.
It looks like .75" is the maximun OD that will work.