I'm screwed, lost only ignition key, key made using VIN doesn't work.....
01-27-2003, 08:47 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Urbandale, Iowa
Posts: 208
I'm screwed, lost only ignition key, key made using VIN doesn't work.....
OK, so I lost my only ignition key.....yeah, dumb move. The car only came with one key and I never really got around to getting a new one made (nor did I want to spend the $40 on one).
I went to the dealership today and had them cut me a new key using information from GM from my VIN code. However, the first key they cut looked NOTHING like the spare key I have (the spare key doesn't have the chip in it....don't ask me wtf
). So they cut me a key using the spare I have and using the VATS spec they had from the VIN. Well, it doesn't work.
I have noticed that the one or two times that I've used PCMcomm from LT1_edit that it comes up with a different VIN on the computer than the body of the car itself. I figured someone may have changed the PCM at some point, but I didn't think it would affect the VATS system or the ignition switch itself.
I WON'T pay for a whole new ignition system. I WON'T pay for the GM dealership to cut a new key for every possible VATS frequency (especially not at $35 a pop
). What should I do? Should I get the VIN from the PCMcomm program and take it to GM in the hopes that the PCM AND the ignition switch were changed at the same time and that GM has records of it?
The vehicle was a theft recovery, so I'm very unsure of it's history. Is there any way I can test for the frequency of what the PCM will accept for the VATS? I'm sure GM will not just continue cutting new keys for me for free until we get it right.
Good god, I'm so screwed.
Please help......
I went to the dealership today and had them cut me a new key using information from GM from my VIN code. However, the first key they cut looked NOTHING like the spare key I have (the spare key doesn't have the chip in it....don't ask me wtf
). So they cut me a key using the spare I have and using the VATS spec they had from the VIN. Well, it doesn't work.I have noticed that the one or two times that I've used PCMcomm from LT1_edit that it comes up with a different VIN on the computer than the body of the car itself. I figured someone may have changed the PCM at some point, but I didn't think it would affect the VATS system or the ignition switch itself.
I WON'T pay for a whole new ignition system. I WON'T pay for the GM dealership to cut a new key for every possible VATS frequency (especially not at $35 a pop
). What should I do? Should I get the VIN from the PCMcomm program and take it to GM in the hopes that the PCM AND the ignition switch were changed at the same time and that GM has records of it?The vehicle was a theft recovery, so I'm very unsure of it's history. Is there any way I can test for the frequency of what the PCM will accept for the VATS? I'm sure GM will not just continue cutting new keys for me for free until we get it right.
Good god, I'm so screwed.
Please help......
01-27-2003, 09:11 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 27,709
Did they make a key that would turn the lock cylinder? If so, you are half way there. The dealership has a tool they call an "interrogator" that they can put in the key cylinder and determine the key code. It does not care what the VIN is. I am surprised they did not do this.
So, now do you think your not wasting the money to have an extra key made was worth it?
When my son got his used Camaro and only one key came with it, we had a key made on the way home from picking it up.
I have measured and recorded the resistance of my key pellet as a precaution, so I never have to go through this.
So, now do you think your not wasting the money to have an extra key made was worth it?
When my son got his used Camaro and only one key came with it, we had a key made on the way home from picking it up.I have measured and recorded the resistance of my key pellet as a precaution, so I never have to go through this.
Last edited by shoebox; 01-27-2003 at 09:13 PM.
01-27-2003, 09:40 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Urbandale, Iowa
Posts: 208
Originally posted by shoebox
Did they make a key that would turn the lock cylinder? If so, you are half way there. The dealership has a tool they call an "interrogator" that they can put in the key cylinder and determine the key code. It does not care what the VIN is. I am surprised they did not do this.
Did they make a key that would turn the lock cylinder? If so, you are half way there. The dealership has a tool they call an "interrogator" that they can put in the key cylinder and determine the key code. It does not care what the VIN is. I am surprised they did not do this.
I'm thinking what I *might* do is go out and buy all 15 different resistors from Radio Shack and do the painstaking process of testing each and every one of them in the VATS wires to see which one works.
Brent has a page with all the different resistor values listed on it, but I'm not certain of where and how I test them on the VATS module.
01-27-2003, 11:43 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 27,709
Originally posted by 94-3.4
How do you measure the resitance on the key? Most of all, how will that help you when you need a new one?
How do you measure the resitance on the key? Most of all, how will that help you when you need a new one?
How does it help?
Ask Bryan. If he had this info, he would not be in the predicament that he is in now! 
If you get in a bind and know the pellet resistance, no one has to try to figure it out.
01-27-2003, 11:50 PM
#6
Super Moderator
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Inverness, FL
Posts: 4,060
Well, since you seem to have more time than money (like most of us! LOL!) you may not be completely screwed... just grab a 6 pack for the following advice
You have a spare key but without the resistor chip, right?
Ok... scroll down on this page to where I talk about installing a starter kill.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/alarm96up4.htm
You'll see there are 15 different resistance values that can be used. Go to Radio Shack and get the resistors necessary to test all combinations. Using the diagram on the page, connect the resistors one at a time across the two small wires in the "ribbon harness" and then turn the key. If you get the Security Light then wait 10 minutes or so and try the next value. Eventually you'll bypass it correctly which will give you the correct GM number you need. You can then take your spare to the GM dealership and have them make you key # x using your copy.
You have a spare key but without the resistor chip, right?
Ok... scroll down on this page to where I talk about installing a starter kill.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/alarm96up4.htm
You'll see there are 15 different resistance values that can be used. Go to Radio Shack and get the resistors necessary to test all combinations. Using the diagram on the page, connect the resistors one at a time across the two small wires in the "ribbon harness" and then turn the key. If you get the Security Light then wait 10 minutes or so and try the next value. Eventually you'll bypass it correctly which will give you the correct GM number you need. You can then take your spare to the GM dealership and have them make you key # x using your copy.
01-28-2003, 12:01 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 27,709
Originally posted by Brent94Z
Well, since you seem to have more time than money (like most of us! LOL!) you may not be completely screwed... just grab a 6 pack for the following advice
You have a spare key but without the resistor chip, right?
Ok... scroll down on this page to where I talk about installing a starter kill.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/alarm96up4.htm
You'll see there are 15 different resistance values that can be used. Go to Radio Shack and get the resistors necessary to test all combinations. Using the diagram on the page, connect the resistors one at a time across the two small wires in the "ribbon harness" and then turn the key. If you get the Security Light then wait 10 minutes or so and try the next value. Eventually you'll bypass it correctly which will give you the correct GM number you need. You can then take your spare to the GM dealership and have them make you key # x using your copy.
Well, since you seem to have more time than money (like most of us! LOL!) you may not be completely screwed... just grab a 6 pack for the following advice
You have a spare key but without the resistor chip, right?
Ok... scroll down on this page to where I talk about installing a starter kill.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/alarm96up4.htm
You'll see there are 15 different resistance values that can be used. Go to Radio Shack and get the resistors necessary to test all combinations. Using the diagram on the page, connect the resistors one at a time across the two small wires in the "ribbon harness" and then turn the key. If you get the Security Light then wait 10 minutes or so and try the next value. Eventually you'll bypass it correctly which will give you the correct GM number you need. You can then take your spare to the GM dealership and have them make you key # x using your copy.
Maybe you will find the right one before you decide to shoot yourself, anyway.
01-28-2003, 12:27 AM
#8
Super Moderator
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Inverness, FL
Posts: 4,060
Originally posted by shoebox
You could invent a new game called "resistor roulette". See if you can pick the right one. Maybe you will find the right one before you decide to shoot yourself, anyway.
You could invent a new game called "resistor roulette". See if you can pick the right one.
Maybe you will find the right one before you decide to shoot yourself, anyway.
01-28-2003, 12:38 AM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Urbandale, Iowa
Posts: 208
Originally posted by Brent94Z
Well, since you seem to have more time than money (like most of us! LOL!) you may not be completely screwed... just grab a 6 pack for the following advice
You have a spare key but without the resistor chip, right?
Ok... scroll down on this page to where I talk about installing a starter kill.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/alarm96up4.htm
You'll see there are 15 different resistance values that can be used. Go to Radio Shack and get the resistors necessary to test all combinations. Using the diagram on the page, connect the resistors one at a time across the two small wires in the "ribbon harness" and then turn the key. If you get the Security Light then wait 10 minutes or so and try the next value. Eventually you'll bypass it correctly which will give you the correct GM number you need. You can then take your spare to the GM dealership and have them make you key # x using your copy.
Well, since you seem to have more time than money (like most of us! LOL!) you may not be completely screwed... just grab a 6 pack for the following advice
You have a spare key but without the resistor chip, right?
Ok... scroll down on this page to where I talk about installing a starter kill.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/alarm96up4.htm
You'll see there are 15 different resistance values that can be used. Go to Radio Shack and get the resistors necessary to test all combinations. Using the diagram on the page, connect the resistors one at a time across the two small wires in the "ribbon harness" and then turn the key. If you get the Security Light then wait 10 minutes or so and try the next value. Eventually you'll bypass it correctly which will give you the correct GM number you need. You can then take your spare to the GM dealership and have them make you key # x using your copy.
I did a search a little while ago and found a link to that same page and read through it. That's how I got the ideas on just getting a bunch of resistors and testing them one by one.
Could I potentially just wire the resistor in to the VATS harness and just tape it all up and be done with it? I realize it's there to help guard against theft, but I was planning on using your directions to install the starter kill in the window switch anyway. Honestly, that window switch setup is probably a tougher system to bypass by any would-be thief anyway. I'm just thinking that the dealership will be pr*cks about it and charge me again for another key......and you're right, I'm poor.
One other question: Will radio shack have resistors for those exact values in that chart? Or will I have to "add and subtract" resistances to get to those numbers? Or does it even matter? If I just get pretty close will that be good enough? I don't really want to be wondering whether I'm getting close enough while testing these resistances.
Thanks!
01-28-2003, 09:21 AM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Long Island, NY, USA
Posts: 170
Painless sells a wiring harness with a VATS bypass module (so you can install the LT1 in a streetrod or older car). Maybe you can contact them & see if they sell just the VATS bypass module.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/
http://www.painlessperformance.com/
01-28-2003, 10:26 AM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Cincinnati, OH, USA
Posts: 1,009
I can disable your VATS and other basic PCM changes for $75 shipped if you'd like. Email me if you want to discuss it further, roz@one.net.
01-28-2003, 02:58 PM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Urbandale, Iowa
Posts: 208
Originally posted by shoebox
You could leave the resistor in to bypass the pellet.
Did you look at the link I provided earlier? As long as you are within the high and low values, the resistor should work.
You could leave the resistor in to bypass the pellet.
Did you look at the link I provided earlier? As long as you are within the high and low values, the resistor should work.
Solomon,
I'll be buying LT1_edit this spring, so I can shut off VATS (along with other stupid functions) myself. Thanks for the offer though.