Ive finally decided on an SLP clutch but i just wanted to check one last time whether anybody thinks this would not be a good reliable clutch for a midly modded car?

Thanks,
Greg

 

How "mildly" are you talking about? If you are dealing with headers, cold air and a shifter then the stock clutch is fine.

 

I think thats probably what I'll go with too. Its rated to 350 or 375 horse if I remember right...for a bolt on car I think its the way to go...heck I've read where some people are squeezing small 50/75 shots and doing fine with it...

 

well here is the list of my potential projects

1.6 RR's and new springs
Shorty Headers (I have to pass CA smog)
4.11 rear
Reprogrammed PCM
160 Thermo

I have an SS so theres already

Cold/Ram air
SLP cat back
K&N Filter

I currently dinoed at 270RWHP, so i figure with these potential mods ill get to just around 330 RWHP which is what SLP says the clutch can handle.

 

If you don't need it immediately, you may want to wait for a GP to save a few bucks. I just ordered one and got it with 10% off from TByrne.

 

10% off SLP? If so is there anyway it can still be had for 10 percent off?

 

I love my SLP clutch. Just a tad snappier than the stock one. Works great. And I plan on 100shot of n20 soon so we'll see how it does.

 

you could just call up jason cromer and order an LT4 pp which is the pp SLP starts out with and just drills holes in. it only costs $208 thru Jason Cromer. then the LT1 disc runs about $180.

 

IronManiac: Check the GP forum

 

You sure the disc is $180? The stock slp disc is only $80 from SLP. Might be $90 but im not sure.

 

I am running it now with my power. My tires brake loose before the clutch will. I should be in the 390rwhp in a few weeks. I think I would get slippage if I hooked up ET streets or something, but for dr's and street tires I am not too worried.