Well, I was driving around for a while yesterday having some fun and my car started cutting out on me again. I've never had it stutter like that on me before, it usually just dies, must have been the pressure I put on the connector with a couple of zip ties.

Anyway, I've been looking at this and it seems pretty straightforward to me, but there's a lot of wires there, so I want to be sure.

So I'm going to use a switch for my ignition, and a pushbutton for my starter (I always thought it would be neat to have that, now my car has decided for me, since the replacement pigtails cost 50 bucks...).

I can understand the bottom part:

Brown is used in acc and run
Pink and orange are both used in run
Yellow is start
Red is power (hot wire)

Questions:

Where does the VATS resistor go in this equation?
What is that S200 thing the red wire is connected to? If I lop off the red wire at the switch, I won't have to worry about the other parts it connects to, will I?
Am I forgetting anything else?

Thanks for any input, I'm hoping this works and I won't have to stare at the voltage gauge on my dash anymore. Every time it drops I get worried.

And btw, what and where is the battery junction block

 

The resistor for the VATS goes to the same place it would go to if you were just bypassing the key. Check the schematic and pics on my Tech Page. Not sure why you would want to bypass the resistor in the key. You still have to use the key to unlock the steering wheel.

S200 is a splice in the harness.

What other parts of the red wire are you referring to?

The battery junction block has the red plastic cover on it, sitting on the RH shock tower.

I would be real sure this is the source of your problem before you go making your car easier to steal.

 

You still have to use the key to unlock the steering wheel- If I do this, will I have to splice in a resistor anywhere for VATS since I am going around the switch on the column? I'm a little confused on whether or not the VATS system routes through there or not.

What other parts of the red wire are you referring to?- Where it goes to the fuse block (cigar/horn) and whatever is going on with the RAP module.

I would be real sure this is the source of your problem before you go making your car easier to steal. - lol, I can wiggle the connectors and make the power cut in and out. If I apply pressure I can make the voltage fluctuate slightly.


And on the whole theft thing, I might just add a couple things to that diagram to make it a pita to steal if I park in a questionable area.

 

If you still use the key, you don't have to worry about the VATS. It does not go through the ignition switch.

You don't need to worry about the branch of circuit 102 that goes to the fuse block as long as you don't get behind that splice at S200. You will be right at the plug to the ignition switch, so no problem.

Why not just take a few minutes to tweak the spring tension on the terminals on plugs to the switch? Sounds like that would solve your whole problem. PT289 pigtail is only ~$12 if you needed to replace it. That's really the only one that usually has a problem with heat.

 

Well, I've been having problems with that area for awhile, and the part retails for about $25/connector here, don't feel like ordering for cheaper and waiting when I can just go around with a little work. I'm not too worried about ease of use, I'm the only person that drives it anyway. I just don't like those parts up there anyway. They just don't feel substantial enough to be carrying that amount of current.

Thanks for your help. I think I might actually be able to do this and not burn up myself or my car.

 

TTT, I hope this is ok to bring this to the top for reference.... Bill