I just bought the car and noticed it had a 30amp fuse in the ign spot under the hood.Well the car blew the ign fuse 3 times today.I had to get it off the road so i put a wire in it having my friend watching to make sure there was no smoke(I know.....) anyways I got it into the garage and now it fine again.When it bew the first fuse I tired a 25 amp and it blew it as soon as i turned the key, it stumbled alittle then stalled.Anyone have any ideas?I'm tiring to find a wiring diagram on the net to back take the circuit.
Eric

 

ttt

 

Be sure you put the particulars of your vehicle up like year and options. In any case you have a big problem. The ignition fuse in all years is only 10 AMP. There could be some major damage to the wiring as a result of putting a 30AMP fuse in there, not to mention a jumper wire.

First thing to do is check which of the 2 fuse contacts comes from the battery and the other side that goes to a few components. In an OBDII car, The 3 components powered from the 10amp fuse is ICM, CPS and coil. Any one of these could be shorted to ground. In an OBDI car, the fuse powers the coil, ICM and the automatic tranny.

With the power off and the fuse out, measure with an ohm meter from the component side of the fuse contacts (not the battery side) to ground. If it is low and it should be, disconnect one of the components list above at a time and see what happens to the resistance. When you find the one that makes the resistance higher when you remove it, try putting the fuse back in leave the one device disconnected that you suspect and try the car with that device unhooked. See if the fuse stays intact. 10 AMP not 30!!!!!

If the resistance is still low from the component side of fuse contacts to ground with the 3 components removed, then you have a shorted wire. It's time to start wiggling wires until you find the spot that makes it go high when moved. Check any where the wires pass through the body or near anywhere hot first. This type of troubleshooting requires either a helper to watch the meter while you wiggle the wires or use a beeper type ohm meter so you don't have to look at the meter.

Hope that helps
Dave

 

You are lucky that slopokrodrigez bothered to reply. How do you expect to get help without basic info such as year/model of car?

 

Oh ya I forgot that sorry.Really I don't expect help from anyone, if they have time to reply I greatly appreciate it though.

The car is a 95 trans am a4 lt1
I think your right about the wire though, so I'll have to track down the bum wire.As of now it been running again.I had just repleaced the coil and ign module,but it was doing this before those,so that shouldn't be a issue.
Thanks

 

are you running an electric WP ?

 

I'm not sure what you mean on obd 1 that the ign fuse powers the a4.What part should I check on that b/c it was just rebuilt before I bought the car.
Thanks again

 

Ive heard of electric water pumps ruining ignitions. If you have an electric water pump, then you might want to run it on its own relay.

 

No has stock wp still.I did check over the fuse holders and found that the pink wire that feeds the cruise,ign,injector,injector fues is reading ground with the motor off.I'm not sure where its coming from though.I don't think it should read ground , if someone else could run out and pull the ign fuse check theres with power off that would be great.Well back out.
Eric

 

Check the first post I did. Should be all you need.