Used this how to...
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test

When I put the voltmeter on A and to ground, I got 0.50 volts, then it dropped to .01. I got the same thing roughly on terminal D.

Here's the story...

Car has been running crappy for a couple weeks. Still drives, but can't give it WOT, gotta gradually give it gas. I can take it to 6500 as long as I don't floor it.

On my way home on the freeway a couple nights ago, the SES light came on, car died but still had battery power. If I gave it gas, it didn't move, etc... Like it had no spark, so I'm thinking opti. So I shut the car off, then turned it back on while I was rolling at about 60 MPH... No difference. So I kept rolling, and shut it off again, then turned it back on. Didn't make a difference. As I was letting it roll to the side of the road, it came back on. Ran crappy like it has all along, but it came back to life, and I drove about 200 more miles home.

SES light eventually went away so I don't know what the code was.

I'm not getting much power to the ICM. According to shoebox, the coil or wiring/fuse to the ICM is to blame. The fuse is fine, and the wiring is fine. I just have no/low voltage.

Is there anyway to test the coil? I am getting 5800 ohms when I tested the coil.

Shoebox site says his coil has 8500, but for 96-97 (different coil) 5800 is about perfect. So the coil has continuity, but can it still be bad?

 

Are you sure you are testing the correct terminals? The diagram shows them C-A-D-B for convenience of viewing. On the plug they are actually A-B-C-D (there are letters on the plug).

 

I did every terminal anyway and they all had the same readings.

But the ones I'm talking about were the two outer terminals. A to the far left, and D to the far right. Are these the correct terminals to check?

 

From A-D the numbers are....

.01
.15
.15
.30

 

A or D to ground should be battery voltage, if you are using the meter correctly. Your coils is connected, right?

 

Everything is connected, and I'm using the meter correctly, unless you have to do something other than place the probe in the terminal.

The only things unplugged are the IAT sensor and MAF sensor.

Key is in the "ON" position. This has got me stumped. I am going to check for a bad ground somewhere.

 

96-97s wiring is slightly different, but unplug the coil and check for power on the pink wire.

 

I just checked it, and I got the same reading as the ICM.

So I checked around the engine bay for grounds, and they were all good.

Just for the hell of it, I opened the black box under the hood. I feel so stupid now. I had been checking the PCM IGN fuse in the dash the entire time.

I pulled the 10A ignition fuse in the box (had no clue it was there), and it was blown. I have replaced the fuse, and am now getting battery voltage from the coil connection and the ICM connection.

I haven't started the car yet, I gotta hook some stuff up.

I can't believe myself.... Oh well, it's been a good learning experience.

 

Just went for a few mile test drive and the car is still sputtering, fluttering, and I can't go WOT. Still surges.

Oh well, at least now I can continue on with the opti test.

 

OK, so I get 13v on A and D.

I set the meter to ac and checked terminal B and it was showing 1.5-3.5.

It appears to be fine.

So can I assume my optispark is not the problem?

 

Have you been able to watch the fuel pressure while your experiencing the problem? Last pump that failed on me had similar issues where if I tried to go WOT it would fall on it's face but if I took it slow I could creep the rpms up slowly.

Another sensors to check would be the MAP...


EDIT: I see you're a 97 so the MAF could also play a part in your problem.

 

It's FIXED. FINALLY.

I can't believe I went this long without trying this....

After my ignition system tested perfect, I decided to swap my stock fuel injectors back in. I have 30# svo's that I bought from a member, and a Madz28 tune.

I put the stockers back in, and it still didn't run quite right, so I said screw it and put the stock PCM back in, with stock tune...

And that's it. It's fixed. It must have been the fuel injectors the entire time.

I won't assume my tune is bad, I have a lot of faith in Ion that he knows how to tune 30# injectors without screwing up.

It must be a bad set of fuel injectors. I'm going to have them tested and replace whichever ones need replacing.

What a bummer. And I drove 1200 miles round trip to PA this past weekend with the car running like garbage.

 

Good deal!Glad you finally got it...Those were used injectors I take it?

 

Yeah man, they were used. It just pisses me off really bad that I didn't figure it out until now. That's what I get for trusting somebody I don't know. He assured me that they were working fine when he pulled them.

I miss having my tuned computer in the car. It got up to 210 today, I haven't seen that in a while with what Ion did, barely ever got past 180.

Feels good to be back in the game.