I've been working on a h/c swap off and on all week and I'm getting to the point where I feel helpless working on it... Everything is just too damn hard to get to, even when I post up a question and you guys help me out. For instance, the main thing stopping me now is the head bolts underneath the headers. My headers are welded to the y pipe and I don't have a welder, so I can't just cut through the weld and patch it up later. I can't even move the header enough to get any access point to the bolts whatsoever. It's just that, in theory, when you guys help me out or something, it seems great and would work in any other cirumstance, but with SOMETHING on MY car, it just never works the way it should.

I'm almost getting to the point where I want to post up a request in the Lounge or something and ask if anybody that knows all about these cars would be willing come here and help me out. It sounds pathetic, I know, but it's getting to that point.

I'm trying to pull the motor now as a last resort to finishing this and I have the four bolts holding the trans brace off, and the nuts holding the motor mounts off, but I can't pull the bolts out of the mounts yet probably because the weight of the engine is still on it. The driveshaft is loose as well. The entire car is off the ground about 7-8 inches from the bottom of every wheel.

I don't know really what to do now. I have the hoist attached to the engine ready to pull but it's very close to my cars nose and whenever I put pressure on it, it seems like when I go to pull the motor, it will hit the front end of my car.

I don't even know what I'm doing anymore, I keep wasting time and getting all confused by trying to think of all these different things at once.

 

I wish I could come over and help you, but I can't. If I were in your position and you have the two headers permanently connected by a welded on Y pipe, I would go ahead and carefully cut that apart in two places that makes sense where you can have a coupling or flange installed. Then it will be serviceable. As for pulling the engine, I've seen where the engine mount bolts were hard to pull out on the pass side due to the AC being in the way. That may have to be removed or loosened to get the bolt out if that is the case. Also, if you have one of the cherry pickers that is too short to get near the car, you might consider removing the front bumper cover and bumper and shorten up the car a foot or so - that is what I had to do. It also makes the car a lot easier to work on and it's not that hard to get those parts off.

 

Just take a break and go to the lounge or whatever and ask someone to come over and help. Lots of people in Pa. area

 

Thanks a lot for the help. I was considering pulling the bumper and all that off as well just to be safe. With the mounting bolts though, it wasn't even matter of just being hard to get to, I tried using a hammer on the driver side to pop it out and it wouldn't budge. That really makes me look forward to the passenger side.... I tried just using a wrench and turning it out, but the bolt just spins.

 

Thats a good idea, and I have been taking breaks, but whenever I come back the same stuff just happens. I was hoping to ask someone to help out as a last resort, but I may have to do it.

 

Trying to do a head swap w/o pulling the headers out? Just cut the Y-pipe out and get it welded back in later, seems alot easier than pulling the motor....

Brad

 

That's true, it would be easier at the moment, but would be a hassle later when I have the car running again. I also spend like a grand a while ago having the exhaust done and I would rather not mess around with it too much, but I will if it comes down to it.

 

its no big deal to cut the exaust...like kevin said...do something to make it servicable flanges or whatever

 

What exactly do you mean by flanges? What do they do?

 

Make things easier for the future by cutting the headers loose from the y-pipe. This is the first I've heard of someone welding them up like that and it makes sense that you're having the trouble that you are. Just have them cut and put flanges on them, then you'll be able to remove the headers and get to everything pretty easily. Flanges look like this



put one on each header and one on each side of the y-pipe so you can unbolt them to remove the headers. Honestly, I don't think you'll ever be able to get those headers out with it welded up. Secondly, if you don't want to get rid of your welded setup then you're only option is going to be to drop the engine out of the bottom of the car, engine cradle and all. It's actually very simple to do if you have the space to work and the tools to do it. You should be able to do a search and find several write-ups on how to do it.

 

yea, just saw-zall right after the welds on the y (don't try to cut the welds, will kill the blade) then just have it welded back up after, a shop should only charge $60 and take about 20-30 mins to weld it back

 

Prices must be alot higher up there =/ 60 bucks is a hell of alot to just have a pipe welded.

i got y-pipe and catback installed for 140 and i have a slipfit style y-pipe.

i agree with cutting it though save yourself the hassle bro i think you can get it welded for 20 to 30 bucks which is far better then the frustration your going threw now.

 

Well, I think I will cut the pipes. I realize now that in the long run, I'm only making the situation worse by trying to the pull the motor. I'll save the cherry picker I just bought for when my engine eventually lets go... oh god... But anyways, thanks for helping me see that in a different light guys, and HOPEFULLY I will just cut the pipes, moves the headers aside and just MOVE ON!

Now I'm gonna hit up the gym (the only place I've been able to get my mind off this hassle since last week)

 

Sounds like a great plan man if you need someone to scream at to make it better your always welcome to call! lol

 

cut that pipe off and when you are done drive it *nicely* to a muffler shop.