I Hate The Stumble!!!
MY car has developed a stumble...how great. It only occurs atfer driving it for like 10-15 minutes when it is warmed up to about 190 degrees. It will slowly develope too, like the stumble won't be too bad, but then eventually it will turn really bad, then violently making the car jerk forward, then after a while it will die. I have replaced the Battery, PCV and fuel filter, but otherwise it is stock. It only has 25K miles as well. On another note, it has been sitting for 7 months, and did something like this last year, only it wasn't as bad as it is this year. I added some heat to try to take the moisture out of the gas. What are some things I should check? I have new plug wires, but I need to cut them to length and didn't want to cut them till I installed my headers.
Do you hear a clacking or loud ticking noise when your about to come to a stop???
If it's a bad stumble and makes the car jerk when accelerating and slowing down it's most likely the opti, and it's not that easy to test.
Not that easy to replace, either, but I would consult a haynes or chilton manual to do it, too many little steps that would be forgotten on the net.
And if you want to know why, it's because you have bridged terminals in the cap & rotor section of your optispark distributor, for some reason gm decided to use a special conductive ink inside of them in order to change the actual output of the spark for each cylinder, to make spark plug wiring simplified. It's not really a matter of time or miles on your car, when they go they go, although cars with higher miles are more at risk. Mine went at about 80k.
If it's a bad stumble and makes the car jerk when accelerating and slowing down it's most likely the opti, and it's not that easy to test.
Not that easy to replace, either, but I would consult a haynes or chilton manual to do it, too many little steps that would be forgotten on the net.
And if you want to know why, it's because you have bridged terminals in the cap & rotor section of your optispark distributor, for some reason gm decided to use a special conductive ink inside of them in order to change the actual output of the spark for each cylinder, to make spark plug wiring simplified. It's not really a matter of time or miles on your car, when they go they go, although cars with higher miles are more at risk. Mine went at about 80k.
When it warms up it stumbles all the time...at least to 3000 rpm, I havn't had it any higher than that. It runs much better above idle than at idle. It use to make a very faint whistling/squeak like noise that I could never figure out. It stopped, which pleased me at first, till the car stalled at a red light.
hmm....because my car has a small stumble at idle. the rpms drop from like 700 rpms to 500 rpms. just every once and a while. when it drops it makes a whistling noise.
if i give it just a little bit of gas, to bring the rpms up to 1200 rpms or so it completly clears up.
i already replaced the IAC, and i'm about to do plugs/wires when i install my headers.
it's hardly noticable at all......i was just wondering if my problem was the same as yours.
if i give it just a little bit of gas, to bring the rpms up to 1200 rpms or so it completly clears up.
i already replaced the IAC, and i'm about to do plugs/wires when i install my headers.
it's hardly noticable at all......i was just wondering if my problem was the same as yours.
No,I don't think mine is the same. Still, does anyone know how to test the o2's? I heard if you unplug tha MAF it sends it into a closed loop and doesn't use the o2's. Is this true? Whats are some other small things I can check before I dump my money into an opti.


