Last night i had to do a really fast swoop and stop. (didn't see the turn for the gas station) I didn't skid or anything. But when i came back out and tried to start my car i got a whole lotta nothing. Now i have never had any problems with starting my car and we checked and charged the battery but i stilll get nothing. No turning, no starter click, nothing. Im thinking starter but is there anything else i should check first and how? And if i do need a starter is the Duralast LT4 starter from Autozone an OK replacement cause that's all my local store has and I want to get this fixed this weekend.

 

i highly doubt its your starter. Does your security light come on and stay on? If it does its your Vats system. If not i would look at your ignition switch if nothing happens at all.

 

Seen a lot problems with loose batteries. Are you sure the hold down at the bottom of the battery is intact holding the battery firm? Be sure to check the contacts at the battery by removing them. Look for leaking out the terminals, this is an indication the battery terminal is broke and the battery would need to be replaced. This is a common problem when the cables are over tightened.

If you suspect the starter is bad, simply test it by jumping 12 volts with a jumper cable directly to the starter. Leave the ignition off so you will be safe when doing it. Also be sure the starter has a good ground. The ground cables never get checked. They are on the engine and frame and should be removed, cleaned shiney and tightened back up.

 

Check the battery cables, in case they are loose.

 

Cool, i'll try those. But if it were the starter what about that duralast LT4 starter from AZ?

 

I wouldn't be caught dead with an electrical part from Autozone or Advance. Not worth the hassle.

 

check ur ignition fuse too i had same thing - but my fuseblock was mislabled from previous owner - thought i checked it ended up towing and 240 bux later i was told the ignition fuse blew and they fixed my label

 

Probably your battery cables yea, is the battery still bolted down? I've actually had okay luck with some of autozone's parts. And their starter (LT1 part # not LT4) seems like a pretty nice unit. Also, I tried using the LT4 starter before, and it didn't work, plus it was actually bigger than the factory one. The LT1 one works fine.

 

put in the new ignition switch last night and jump tested the starter which was ok and still have nothing. Headlights come on, warning lights (ABS Inop, Check Gauges, SES, Low trac) all flash test but still no start, no click, no nothing. The only thing is that my security light continually flashes. It disn't start until after the new ignition switch. Im at a loss guys!

 

traced the lead terminal off the starter back into the car to the harness under the glove box, it checked out. Hey what is the VATS system? Does it have anything to do with the resistor in my key (mine looks OK but i have spares at my office) can the VATS be disabled?

 

vats is the security system in all fourth gen f bodys that checks the resistance of the resistor in your key to make it harder to hot wire. if the security light keeps flashin then thats probably what it is. sometimes cotamination on the key or in the key hole will change the resistance enough, i would try a differnt key or try cleaning the key whole out before i took anything apart

 

If you have a meter, hook it up to the starter to see if its getting voltage while the key is in the crank position. If its not, that eliminates that idea

 

I had the same problem...Mine was the wires that run down on the passanger side by the headers. I burned the Crank Pos. sensor wire in half and it was doing the same thing. i would suggest pulling that group of wires out and looking at that.

Matt

 

when i followed the purple wire past the harness under the glove box it led into a relay (VATS, I assume) i pulled the relay and jumpered the brown wire (only one with current with key in the start position) to the purple wire and was able to crank the car, although it died after a few seconds. Im guessing the relay is bad or did i just bypass something?

 

You proved the ignition switch works and the trans range switch works. You also jumped around the theft deterrent relay (sort of). So it seems that your problem is in the VATS. Most of the time the keys are worn thin and don't make good contact with the sensor in the switch. Try a new key if you can, but those things are exensive if you have to buy them. If that doesn't help the VATS can get a little tricky to fix. The best way to trouble shoot any chain of items is to split them in 2 parts and go after the half with the problem. Try this:

Pull the connector apart under the column with the orange over wrap. Put the same value resistor as your key pellet in the connector side going to the PCM. Not the side going up the column. Tape it up and try the car as usual. See if the security light is out and the engine cranks. Obviously if it works now the problem is in the key reader circuit. If it still doesn't work check the gages fuse #9 10 amp and the courtesy fuse #8 20 amp. The last thing to check if it still doesn't work is the yel/blk wire from the relay you jumped to the PCM on pin c11 to see if you have continuity. If you do have continuity, chances are the BCM is crapped out.

Let us know what happens.