whats it take to convert to a solid roller.

ive bought a cs306-10 needless to say that it is on a 110. but i dont know if that is a solid roller or hydralic. i bought it from a individual without asking if it was solid or hydralic. but im still going to buy becuase i gave my word that i would.

but if it is a solid roller what does it take to convert.

ive pmed him to find out but havent heard back.

i mean worse case senerio is that it is a solid roller and i have to convert.

 

You will need to add some solid roller lifters.

 

well if thats all it takes im ok. becuase he said it comes with new lifter , springs, lockes and retainers and the cam.

maybe you can tell what it is shoebox CS306-10

 

Doesn't a solid roller need longer pushrods?? I thought I heard something about that.

 

Don't know for sure, but I would suspect the "S" in the listing means "solid". You will also need to know what the valve lash is (probably .020, .020).

 

i cant find on the copm cams website.

 

do solid rollers make anymore hp than hydralic.

if lifters are the only thing i have to do then i dont care because it comes with spring and new lifters.

 

Ive done the conversion before.

You will need solid roller lifters (i prefer Comp Endur-X) There are about $430 last time i checked. You will need longer pushrods (i needed 7.8" as compared to the stock 7.2", and larger pressure springs matched to the cam, and then new locks and retainers for those springs.

 

And you will need to check valve lash at least twice a year, or every 6K miles.

You might also want to consider (if you don't already have them) a set of full roller rockers to handle the increased spring pressures.

 

thanks guys this helps.

what happen he bouth this stuff and and then bought a ls1, and has no need for it.

so why would you ned longer push rods.

you know what sucks is that im not sure yet if the cam is a solid roller.

what is acctualy different betwen the cams themselve what make one a hydralic roler and the solid, just curious.

 

The lifters are different in design and are much shorter than a hyd lifter, therefore necessitating longer pushrods.

And a solid roller cam has more extreme ramps than a hyd roller cam. The whole solid roller term is really the entire valvetrain not just the cam.

 

so do i need to mesuare a stock set of lifters and measure the new ones, and compisate for with the pushrods.

and thanks on the claification on the word "solid roller"

 

Best way would be a pushrod length checker

 

thanks alot.

 

I think you might want to do a little more research on "solid rollers" before you commit to one.

The primary benefits are 1) a more aggressive ramp that will put more "area under the curve" when comparing solid and hydraulic rollers of the same duration, and 2) the ability to rev higher, well over 7,000rpm. More area under the curve is good. The ability to rev higher is worthless, unless you have the heads and rotating assembly to support it.

The downsides are an increase in mechanical noise under the hood (I actually love the sound of a solid roller - but not all people do) to the extent that you may have to eliminate the knock sensor (I don't run one). And the fact that valve clearance needs to be checked and reset periodically.