Well I bought a block off ebay and i wasnt told that 1 of the cylinders had been sleeved. Whatever, long story short, i cant get my money back, or get it replaced. So I figured what the ****, maybe... just maybe the piston skirt wont catch. So I test fit the piston today and well what do you know, it catches I dont know for sure if the piston would behave the same way when the engine is running but I really dont think I want to risk it.... Unless someone knows otherwise...

Picture http://zachrs.8m.com/Pictures/Pictur...-04/Sleeve.htm

Lemme know what you think...
Thanks

Its a 383 with dished JE pistons with 6" rods.

 

take it to a professional builder and get everything mic'd to check for clearances, then have that cylinder re hoaned or have the ridge smoothed out.

thats my suggestion

 

Well, its not exactly small enough to hone the cylinder to get it out, its about .025-.035 and tapers to nil. Smoothing it out however seems like a semi decent idea... still worries me tho. Thanks for the reply!

-Zach

 

Yeah thats really down there, I know your rings wont be hanging on it, if it appears to be a problem have them blend it better with a slight hone like previously mentioned. Is there a lip at top as well?

 

If i have it honed they have to hone the whole cylinder... otherwise its gonna have a hell of a taper.... forged pistons already have a decent amount of clearance. The rings arent even close to touching it thankfully... but the landing at the bottom of the wrist pin definatly passes over it. No ridge at the top though. Guess a little smoothing is in line, lest i come across another block i like... lol and a tree that grows money!

Thanks

 

If you find that money tree I'll take an acorn from it.

 

The ridge at the bottom is probably the original bore size.Take a die grinder and flapper wheel and carefully blend it in so the piston skirt does not hit and you can't feel a ridge.The piston comes down that far and out of the hole with the skirt.Blend it all the way around so you can't feel it and it will be good to go. I would have it pressure checked to make sure the sleeve is done right and not leaking or put hard block in it to the bottom of the freeze plug holes.That will not effect cooling and stop any leaks.

 

I'd also have the machine shop magnaflux the block because I swear it looks like there's a crack in the block on the oilpan rail right next to the sleeve.
Does anyone else see this or is it just me?

 

I see the line but it looks like a mold parting line.

 

The ridge is the bottom of the sleeve...the sleeve is shorter than the length that is bored out. The ridge drops out from the sleeve, not in.

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Like that... if it makes sense lol

 

Makes a lot of sense.Flapper wheel the "block" ridge down until you can't feel it or it measures the same as the sleeve.Do this with a air die grinder from the bottom.If it is 1-2 thousands large it won't hurt down there,just don't go overboard.Take some time with it and you'll be OK.Try not to hit the sleeve and oversize it.

 

So, make it like this is what you are saying...

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like that

 

I supposed I could do that.... the ridge isn't all the way around the cylinder tho... more like a cresent, like a moon lol i just dont wanna have this be the reason that turns my rotating assembly into junk... cuz it aint cheap. I probably should just sell this to someone who wants a 355 or something with shorter stroke or rods... thanks yall appreciate it.

Thanks

-Zach

 

So, is the piston skirt catching on the sleeve or the block where the sleeve was installed ?

-Shannon