How can I raise a LT1 from the top? Which spots are good lifting spots? The black alternator brace looks ok. Any ideas?

 

Do you mean to completely remove the motor from the top? Or just lift it enough to get access to something?

 

How to set a hoist to the top, would be the best. ( not to lift it out )

 

If you're just trying to raise it up a little bit, you can screw a grade 8 bolt into one of the bolt holes on the front of the heads and lift up on it.

 

Sorry I dont have an answer for ya there, I just dropped my engine cradle and all through the bottom. I did a search on your past posts and foud out your replacing your oil pan gasket. How high up do you need to lift the engine ? Is it still bolted to the tranny ? The reason I ask is because you are going to be limited by the cowl anyway. If you have an engine leveler you could just about hook the chains up anywhere you can get the bolts to clear.

Anyway, I saw that you are from Muncie and thought it was pretty cool to actually see someone else on here from this area. You go to the dragway much ? Or are you just there for Ball State ?

L8R

 

To replace the pan gasket, you need to unbolt one motor mount and tilt the engine. Buy a felpro rubber pan gasket and clean the pan really well, then you can slip the gasket over the pan and into place.

 

Just an FYI. I've changed the pan gasket on a number of LT1 cars without lifting the engine at all. Easiest with universal sockets, but certainly doable.

Also I put new poly motor mounts on my car and I swear I gained at least an inch under the pan, just enough to make access that much easier.

 

Yea, I race at muncie drag all the time man. And go to bsu.

Heres the deal. I removed one mount bolt, raised it up on one side with the alt. brace, and was almost done when i accidently dropped a bolt in the pan. So I had to lower the engine, take out the other mount, raise it up with a jack, but, the hormonic balancer (crank shaft pulley arrow wasn't set right, it was down but i still couldn't get it out right) but after i got one motor mount bolt in i was doing the other and the engine fell an inch (the jack slipped) and chopped off a quarter inch of my finger. So, now i need to raise the engine with my hoist to get the pan out and get it done.

 

OUCH !!! I hope everything works out for ya man. If I didn't already have plans this weekend and I could have found a babysitter for my kids, I'd about come over to help ya out. It sounds like you could use a couple extra fingers. lol If you still end up stuck and need some help, shoot me a PM and I'll see what I can do.

L8R

 

Thanks man. Appreciate it! I just ordered the happy hooker, so that should come in soon.

How often do you race at muncie?

 

I haven't actually run any of my cars there this year (yet), but I have been several times. (mostly Wendsday nights) Last year I was running a black 81Z28 that was hittin 12.9's before I put Canfield 220's on there. Then I sold the car for the 95 Z that I have now. I was getting ready to take the 95Z over for a Wendsday night thrashing when the #1 rod bearing took a big poo on me. The sad thing is, this engine was supposedly rebuilt back in November. All I can say is I am surprised this engine was actually running with all the loose bolts throughout it. The bearings that were in it looked as if there was a quarter pound of metal shavings in the oil. Oh well, the stroker is on the way soon.

I will probably be at the dragway next Saturday. McD's in Albany is giving out free passes all this coming week.
Let me know how ya like that "happy hooker" lol

L8R

 

Just did the oil pan gasket last weekend... took about 4 hours. Go rent an engine hoist... you'll be glad you did. When I did a search on swapping the oil pan gasket, I too, found many people who claim to be able to do it without lifting the motor. My hat is off to them... I couldn't have done it. Besides, this is one job I'd prefer to do once... and I wanted to make sure I had plenty of room to clean the block thoroughly... to ensure a good seal.

Accessing the 2 motor mount bolts is fairly easy... the hard part is getting the passenger's side bolt out past the a/c lines... but if you bend the lines gently it isn't too bad. I simply hooked two tie-down straps to the engine hoist and wrapped them around the exhaust manifolds to lift the motor. Since I've got some headers on the way, I really didn't care if I hurt the exhaust manifold... but I doubt that I did. Only need to raise the engine about 4 inches and the oil pan will clear without a problem... you can then pull it out and clean it up. Don't forget to remove the oil level sensor before pulling the pan.

I was surprised to see how clean the pan was. I've got 36,000 miles on the engine... all hard miles, as the car is only driven to have fun, not a daily. I guess that is a testament to Mobil-1... crankshaft was clean and not a bit of sludge in the pan.

One thing you are going to have to decide is how much RTV to use. Many people I know are afraid to use it for fear that parts of the RTV will break off, possibly clogging an oil passage... and thus causing major engine damage. But if you don't use RTV, there is a reasonable chance the pan will leak... defeating the entire purpose for its replacement. Anyhow, I used a FelPro gasket with liberal use of GM HiTemp RTV on the corners of the pan. I'd also recommend replacing the rear main seal and housing gasket while you are at it. I did mine along with the oil pan... good insurance to prevent oil getting into the clutch... especially since I'm replacing my stock unit with an SLP one.

Good luck... I hope it doesn't leak!