I about died on that one.

 

LOL...that's really the only way to describe the sound. It's not a harsh ticking, more of a hushed sound. Like "ch" in "china"..."ch ch ch ch ch ch" is how it sounds.

How's that for a retarded explanation? Making car noises over the internet sucks.

 

I did my ProMags and Comp R at 3/8th turn and my valvetrain is as silent as stock.

 

Not to be rude, but I made those same numbers basically with a little flowmaster catback and an intake, so its not that they are SOOO impressive that you arent losing out on power, duals, an intake im assuming, and rockers I would hope to put down more power than that, so quite possibly you are losing out on power, its not going to be 10 or 15hp, but it could be, no reason to preload them that much...so why not load them like everyone else has proven is good...~1/2 turn?

 

So enough about the noise. How about the pull. What kind of improvement did you get from the Comp R's and/or the 1.7 Rollers?

 

Check out the dyno and track work that TPIS has done with
lash in the 1.5 turn range. Also make a call to Crane, as I just
did today, with a recommendation of 1 turn. And FYI, I am not
SOOO impressed with my numbers. My car is not making
anywhere near the power of most folks on the board, and I
have no interest in making it a big power car. The simple point
is that for the mods, I am right up there where I should be.
The only area of the dyno curve where there is a hint of
anything is at about 5000 where the power levels off until
5200 where it picks up again. Maybe it's lash, maybe not.


I have not played around with the lash on my LT1, but I
used to play with the lash on my 68 GTO and tried about
every combination. Without a dyno it was hard to tell the
difference, but >1/2 turn was always better than <1/2 turn,
especially in the 5,500 to 6,500 range. I would shift 1-2 at
6,500 which will never happen with the LT1, so the gains
from an extreme lash setting will be less. At least I have
tried it and have a basis for future reference.

 

Well...got them readjusted tonight and they quieted down a lot. We adjusted them with the car running...that probably made a big difference as opposed to how we did it last time.

And now, the bad news. We ran it at WOT a few times to make sure it wasn't going lean up top and...

*BANG!*

Something let loose in the valvetrain...I'm guessing that one of the rocker studs probably snapped. We were too pissed off and too tired to mess with it tonight, so I guess I'll find out how bad it is tomorrow.

Would anyone like to buy a slightly used (and abused) 383 LT1 Camaro? I think I'm just about done with it.

 

Poor jeff. That car hates you (and me)

 

is adjusting for noise the right way to go about it?

 

If it was just a rocker stud, I won't be too worried about it. It's happened before, but that was with the stock rocker studs. I wouldn't think that an ARP stud could snap like that. I guess we'll find out today. If it did snap, I'm also guessing it's time for a stud girdle.

 

Sometimes it seems like it's just one thing after another man. Believe me I know how you feel. Hang in there and all will be well ....eventually. You need to find a cheap beater so the downtime doesn't hurt you. By the way, how long did your oem type lifters last with the k-800's. I got the same springs with new stock lifters and 1.6 lt4 rockers on stock studs and you are scaring the sh@t out of me. I was hoping to get at least a little longevity out of that combo.

 

No downtime for now...I stole Dave's truck.

I don't know if the OEM lifters will hold up well or not. Have you installed them yet? If not, return them if you can and get a set of Comp Rs from Thunder Racing. They're worth the extra $50 or so over the OEM lifters. I doubt the ones that I pulled out of mine are hurt at all, but they just weren't strong enough to hold up to the K800 spring pressures. They've been clacking like hell since day one.

Another very good idea would be to buy a new set of ARP rocker studs. I snapped a stock stud about 6 months or so ago...luckily it didn't damage anything. The rocker just kind of fell over and landed out of the way. New ARP studs are cheap insurance...around $29 for a set of the high performance style studs or $55 for the pro style studs. Mine are definately getting replaced with the pro style in the near future.

 

you guys do know that the factory sets them at a full turn...and OEM lifters are SUPPOSED to be a full turn....TPIS did dyno runs in the past with different lash settings....they STILL were gaining power with 3 FULL TURNS....from reading that the comp r's will bottom at 1 1/2 then im assuming they did it with oem lifters but damn 3 turns...

 

are you saying 3 full turns from "0" lash??? thats impossible, at just a little over 1 3/4 turns my plunger has bottomed out on my lifters hanging the valve open.

 

1/4 turn.

Not 2 or 3.