How many hp it increase? Is there any site they sale it?

 

LE2 heads and cam? Also the LT4 intake IS NOT and upgrade over the LT1 intake, just made to boltup to LT4 heads.

 

You might want to check out his site.

www.eportworks.com

 

Unless you use LT4 heads you can not use the Lt4 intake.

 

So, which intake should buy for LE head?

 

A stock LT1 intake manifold completely ported will suit your needs just fine.

 

The heads you're talking about are your own. Your stock LT1 heads given the LE treatment. He does intakes too, btw.

 

I hear that porting the intake is a waste of money unless you're making over somthing like 475 hp. LE2 will get you a proven 410. But you need all the bolt ons and you're going to want to redue most of you're valvetrain while you're at it. That should give you plenty of other stuff to spend you're money on

 

You need to have an LT1 intake with LT1 heads and LT4 intake with LT4 heads.

The LT4 heads have a much taller port and you need the LT4 intake to be able to open it up to the size you need it. The LT1 heads have a shorter port and the LT1 intake can be opened up big enough to match. Using an LT4 intake on an LT1 is useless.

The LT1/LT4 choice will have more to do with cubic inch and RPM of YOUR set up. The LT1's are capable of some pretty impresive performance but the LT4's are a better choice to start with if we are running a 6700 RPM 350/355 or a 6200 RPM stroker.

I have seen gains on even mild set up by porting the intake. I have never seen ANY low end TQ loss or anything like that at all. Opening the intake manifold will add plenum volume (even though it i in the runners) and help out at high RPM. This also allows the air to slow down a lil and not have to take the 90 degree turn from TB to intake runner at such a high speed.

Port matching (NOT gasket matching) and the raising the roof as much as possible to remove as much of the ski slope is worth some gains too. Straitening the walls and letteing them slowly taper larger as they go towards the plenum area helps too. You want the intake manifold runner to be AT LEAST the same size as the pushrod pinch (MCA) of the head.

I can ASSURE you that there are some gains from doing the intake THIS way. It is not like you would mistake this for a NOS system or anything but if you are running a cam around 230 at .050, the ported intake will be worth some HP and the #'s will not "level off or fall off" as much up top as compared to a stock intake.

If you are running a stock LT4 inake with ported LT4 heads, you are killing yourself.

Lloyd Elliott
972-617-5671
Eportworks.com

 

For reference, are both numbers you mentioned (475 & 410) at the wheel?

Like a lot of things, one mod taken in isolation will not be a huge difference. A bunch of improvements everywhere though - things start adding up. Just like beehives with ti retainers vs regular springs with regular retainers. 30rwhp difference? Obviously not.. but a few.

PLUS - porting the intake (with LE anyway) is pretty cheap.

Now for the disclaimer... There are some folks who might be anti beehive and will cry foul here, I know, I know. The comparison was for illustration purposes only, don't get all bent.

 

Are there any aftermarket intake for LE? or ported stock one is fine?

 

There are no readily available aftermarket LT1 intakes a few places have tried including Edelbrock and Lingenfelter and they failed to make anything worth putting into production. Sure on gen1 cars the intake is a great place to start modding but this aint a gen1 and a lot of the old rules no longer apply.

 

There are 3 (squinn, sstrokerace, hogan) that I can think of, but they are not assembly-line type items (meaning not cheap).