Ya I know it's really weird. I had done a background check on the place before going there and people had nothing but good things to say about it. I don't get it.

In any case, I talked with Rob at Strictly for a while over the phone today, trying to be as calm and resonable as possible. Long story short, I won't get my money back without litigation. Before going that route though, we're giving it one more try but with some ground rules. The plan was two schedule to bring my car by in two weeks on a Monday. The car *will* be completed by that Friday. Rob himself will be doing the work, so no B team this time. I will be calling him once daily to check on progress. I will also be asking him to keep the car for a day once its completed, and to drive it around, that way any problems should be apparent.

You'll note that I said that "was" the plan. After I hung up with Rob and went outside to start my car, it wouldnt start ;( Doesn't crank at all so this might be all related to the weird flashing lights on the dash, like a grounding issue. In any case, the car got towed to Strictly today, and I'm gonna touch base with him on Monday and see if the previous plan can be started this Monday instead of two weeks from now.

 

That sucks. Good luck getting everything sorted out.


I had a problem with a shop a month ago that sold me a slightly used rearend with 3.73s/Eaton, etc. The problem seemed to be a screwed up install, but they finally got it to quit making noise.

 

dont be mad... been over a year since ive driven my car.... but katrina was in the middle of that

cory

 

Just got my car back yesterday. I know, that plan was to leave the car with him for only one week, but I gave him the benefit of the doubt once again. The goal was to fix the last remaining issues:

1) oil leak
2) fumes, smoke comming from the car
3) ac not working
4) low oil and abs inop lights comming on

So how did it go? I got the car back yesterday and parked it in my garage. This morning before heading out I took a look underneath it. Lots of oil on the ground. So #1 is not fixed, even though he claims to have checked it personally.

Tonight when I got home I parked the car in my garage, shut off the car, closed the garage door, then stood and stared at the car. Sure enough, within seconds smoke started once again billowing from the car quickly filling my garage. So #2 wasnt fixed even though, again, he claimed to have personally checked it.

For the AC, it was claimed to be done. When I went to pick up the car yesterday it didnt work at the shop, he had forgotten to look at it. He then tried refilling the freon but it was full. 3 hours later they diagnosed it to be a faulty switch of some kind in the hood area. So I need to get that switched changed myself on my own time.

For the oil low light, he has no idea what it is or how to fix it. So its still on.

For the abs inop light, he claims my abs unit needs changing.

So there you have it. The car *feels* ok, it definitly feels more powerfull than my previous hotcammed 350 lt1, but it still leaks oil, puts out fumes, and has a low oil light that can't be figured out. I had already asked him for my money back prior to this last fix attempt, and he won't do that. So I have to take matters into my own hands. I've tried to be as reasonable as possible, but at this point bringing the car back for the 15th time to "fix it again" seems rediculous and futile. So I'm trying to decide what to do, either dispute the entire charge with my credit card company and offer to give him the motor back when we go to court, or dispute about $4000 of the charge and pay someone else to fix it. Either way it looks like we're gonna go to court.

That's about it.

 

Tell them you want your money back and they can have their engine back. I'm sure they won't do it, but you need to firmly express yourself

If they don't take care of you, contact the BBB.

 

I would call the State Automotive Bureau of Repair and tell them what happened. I would tell them you want all your money back. They should be able to help. I've used them before and got money back and repairs made. Like someone stated earlier I wouldn't get near Strictly again.

 

What oil pan is on the car? Most likely the wire to the oil level sensor isn't plugged in. Most aftermarket pans don't have the provision for the level sensor so it is usually just turned off in the programming. Not all mechanics have the tool to do this.

As for the oil leak, can you isolate where it is coming from? Does it seem more to the rear of the block or the front?

 

I tried asking for money back before this last chance repair, basically "that ain't gonna happen". He even made a point to say that on the paperwork it says the motor has no warranty. I offered to give the entire motor back for a refund as well and he said "what am i gonna do with a motor I don't want?". There's no way he's giving any money back voluntarily, or taking the motor back.

The oil pan on the car is supposed to be the stock pan. They changed the oil sensor and supposedly the wiring was checked. The low oil light does sometimes go off for a while, but its mostly on. The ABS Inop light is usually off when the car first starts, but it will turn on if you get on the throttle alot.

Hmm, I didn't know about the State Automotive Bureau of Repair. Thanks for that, I'll give them a call. My credit card company gives me one year to dispute a charge, so even though this ordeal took over 6 months it looks like I still have time to dispute.

 

They may have broken the oil level sensor, seeing as how you mentoin sometimes it turns off.

The oil level sensor doesn't have a PCM register, it's simply a dummy light that hits the dash. For cars that don't have the provision for the sensor anymore (like mine) we simply snip the harness end off the sensor and short it out, that turns off the light.

Sounds like one ****ty *** shop.

 

When looking at the car from the side, most of the oil on the floor seems to be from just behind the front tires, to the front edge of the front door. Supposedly the main seal has been changed a number of times. I presume the oil leak and fumes are one and the same problem, I figure oil is getting knocked around onto hot parts somehow and making that smoke. They just can't seem to figure out why or from where.

Is it possible the oil leak could be something as simple as too much oil? With the low oil light being on, maybe someone saw that and threw in too much oil and theres some kind of overflow hapenning?

 

Ah cool, didn't know that. That explains why no codes are thrown. I guess killing that sensor is not a big deal since I could use the oil pressure guage to check on oil level anyways right?

 

Wow, damn... No words
Start disputing a charge. It may not work though, amount is too big. Prepare everything you have in written, all paperwork. Make a copies. There should be contract/service agreement, all receipts, specs, order lists, warranties, etc. Add all defects observations from second shop (in written, with names/etc.). Write everything happened in chronological order. Is this guy you spoke with is the shop owner? If not, no reason talking to him. Good luck!

 

Too much oil can be a problem. If you want to know where it is leaking from, a flourescent dye and blacklight is what is normally used. If you have that done and the leak fixed, then have them check the low oil sensor while the oil is drained.

 

I would not suspect the rear main seal as much as I would the oil pan seal. How much oil did you say is leaking when you park the car? A large puddle or..?

Too much oil... as in, an extra quart or so.. will usually cause oil pressure problems due to excessive windage.. normally not leaks. There's really nowhere for the oil to "blow out of" per say that I know of or have seen... cept maybe the dipstick, but that area of the car is under vaccuum, not pressure.

 

Do yourself a favor and check around the mating surface of the pan for oil. See if it is beaded up around the pan at the gasket.

Outside of that, look at the wires that go to the low oil sensor, un-clip the sensor and take a look at it and the wires. Look for any exposed wires or anywhere the the wire looks like it may have a cut in it. The intermitent working of the sensor could be something like that.

These are small things you yourself can check, I agree you shouldn't have to. At this point though its a matter of getting the car running and working correctly.