Since I just ticked in at 194,500 miles... I really need to start considering a new engine. It is my daily driver that I need to get to school and work, so a rebuild I believe would be out of the question. I am working at Sonic making $6/hr right now, but should hopefully be working at a car dealership for my internship at the votech school im going to this year(and next) making $7+ an hour so saving money is a concern. I figured if I do as much work myself as possible, that could save quite a bit. This is a project I'd like to have finished by spring break, or at latest, next summer.

I think my main obstacle is where this will be done, my garage. My dad is a woodworker and there is always sawdust in there... I doubt that is a good thing if I will be building an engine in there, but it may need to suffice. I could cover it whenever I'm not working on it to hopefully prevent any crud from getting inside.

My goals with this engine I plan to build are:
-355ci(maybe 383... depends on how many supporting mods I'd have to do)
-11:1 compression (don't plan on anything but NA)
-probably an LE2(maybe LE3) head package w/ a cam that will produce good power(375+) but still be relatively fuel efficient
-and will aim to keep the budget below $3000 for everything, including labor to get it installed and dyno tuned, seeing as I don't have a lift or the means to put the engine in from underneath.

I'm only 17 and don't know a whole lot aside from the general workings of a pushrod engine, but hope to get some knowledge out of the votech program I'll be in... do you think this is a reasonable feat I can undertake?

 

Cleaniness is one of the most important factors in an engine build, you need to decide if you are capable of keeping everything sanitary....put up a tarp around a corner of the garage, keep everything in engine bags until ready to assemble.

The actual assembly of the motor is not difficult if you build a totally stock motor, as soon as you deviate from the factory package trouble comes...we say this around the shop all the time "Everything must be modified" if you add an aftermarket part, it will effect other things in the package, you are liable to get yourself into trouble if you start out with a complicated build.

That being said, find a reputable machine shop and talk to them about what you want to do, they should be able to do a MFK(machine for kit), clean and prep the block, machine everything, etc. Stick with a 3.480" crank for your first build for cost and ease of parts matching.

Buy a the S&A Designs book "Building the LT1" and read it cover to cover several times....

 

To properly build an engine like that, you will need alot more than $3K.

Maybe you should set your sights a little lower, and learn to drive it too.

Try just doing a stock bottom end rebuild with a cam and maybe learn to port the heads yourself. You'll need to upgrade the springs as well. That plus labor of installation (do it yourself maybe?) and dynotune would be around $3300 depending on where you go. You can still put down mid-low 12s with the right cam and bolt-ons.

Sh*t, LT1s can put down 12s with a stock motor and a couple bolt-ons.. but that's another topic.

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If this will be your first engine rebuild or major work on a car. I suggest that you find a good used LT-1 engine (long Block) from a good salvage year. I know alot of people don't like this idea. But you can get them with atleast a 4 month warrenty that you won't get rebuilding yourself. You can get this motor for 1000 or less. This will be alot cheaper than a rebuild. Place the salvaged motor in over a week's time and your off and running. I did this myself because I didn't want alot of down time in my car. What I plan on doing now is rebuilding the motor I took out over the next few years. That way it won't seem like I'm dumping alot of money into the car at one time. I put my salvaged motor in last March and it runs good and strong. At 17 years old and not making alot of money I would really consider this route.

 

Thanks for the suggestions so far guys...

I think the cleanliness thing would be my biggest problem.

My votech teacher is a big Chevy fan and loves all things Camaro/Corvette so I'll see if he may be able to help me once school starts(Tuesday). Or maybe use a small corner in the school's garage on the weekends

I'd say low to mid 12s is where I'll be happy with the car, so maybe I'll just go the rebuild what I've got route and then just go for basic bolt ons.

 

I'll give a x2 on saying $3K won't be enough.

 

Hmmm...

well what all would I need to do if I were to get a 383 bottom end put in.. I know the stock heads would choke it to death, but would it be usable in the meantime while I save for an LE2 or 3 package? What about issues with fuel injectors and pump and whatnot?

edit:
Someone told me they would just get the necessary bolt ons like a CAI, LTs, and then save for whatever it is I'm going to do... would the LTs cause too much stress on a highmileage motor since they add so much power?

 

This is exactly the route I'm taking with my T/A - I hope to be running 12.9s shortly with just free mods, a bullet muffler/cat delete still with stock piping, 4.10 gears, a self-tune and Nitto 555Rs. These cars have massive potential just with bolt-ons.

I'd suggest doing at least a full exhaust with a new motor, you'll be much happier.

Going the 383 route is pretty much out of the $3k range if you want it to last for very long.

You can build a stout 355 block for 3k, but plan on installing it yourself.

And no, LTs won't hurt your motor in that regard. They only add about 15 rwhp.

 

Thanks, I believe a 355 will end up being the best way to go... after I get LTs and a CAI, a good tune up, and some other small things fixed.

 

There are some pretty nice shortblocks in the for sale section of this site....they come and go but you can usually find a pretty nice one that will allow you to stay in that price range.