Its fair to say that not every motor will need the steam pipe. But how does one know (outside of GM) if their motor can properly operate without it. GM engineered the LT1 to work under a much broader set of operating conditions, climate conditions, driving conditions and wear & tear conditions than most of us are intimately familiar with. Clearly there are situations where its required or they would have omitted it from the engine.

Look at the oil cooler for the LT1 Corvette. They omitted it cause they intended for everyone to use synthetic oil at scheduled oil changes. I guarantee that not every LT1 vette was filled with synthetic oil during scheduled oil changes. Are there problems as a result of this? Who knows?
Now take the F-body, it has the oil cooler and comes with standard motor oil. Clearly GM has their reasons for using the cooler in this application and not in others.

That said I removed the oil cooler from my motor which is was originally equipped. I feel warm and fuzzy that things will be just fine considering that the Vette did not come with the cooler and I run synthetic oil.

However it was determined by GM that the LT1 required the steam pipe for ALL applications for reasons that most of us may not be familiar wit. But again they have their reasons. I am not saying you "cant" delete the steam pipe. Again I am just saying GM has their reasons or they would have deleted it. I also look at it as something I can put on in 10 minutes or remove in 20 minutes or so.

 

I would be very interested in seeing that reverse cooled Mopar big block - have any pictures of the setup?

Air will always find the highest point in the pocket it is in. For the air pockets to find their way to the thermostat would require those bubbles travel down in the cooling system... And air does not do that.

The other issue is steam pockets that form from hot spots. These need to be able to pass through, as well.

It's basic physics - lighter substances float on top of heaver ones.

 

Yeah, besides half of it being under the cowl it doesn't look that bad, lol. Of course, since I have yet to do it, what do I know.

 

The set-up I used is on Indy Cylinder heads site, check it out. They are big in mopars however they do other work too.

Trust me I understand "Fizziks", that was my major in college. Fluid and air dynamics is better suited for this.

My experience is this: if its properly filled and the air is purged out slowly, then more coolant/water/glycol is fill the void left by the escaping air and the engine is put through a few heat cycles then purged and filled again you won't have issues.