If it is remanufactured and has a warranty, go for it. I assume that you will be paying the freight both ways.

When may engine with only 7 grand went to hell after a cam install and I bought a new shortblock, the mechanic wouldn't give me a nickle for my block, so I just left it in their garage and drove off---not needing a broken engine sitting in my front yard. So if you can get a good remanufactured engine for that much, go for it.

You might want the specs on what they did to it, including the brand of parts, machine and magnaflux data, etc. Also, if they can do it for that much, perhaps a bit more shopping around and you can do better, either for the price or for what you get.

 

bearings gaskets and rings will cost more than that almost.

if it sounds to good to be true it prolly is, i would stay away from that. i paid more for machine work on my block

 

Are you serious?

 

Yeah, I agree, that does sound off in terms of cost. I would get some more details in what is involved in the "stock replacement block assembly" service they offer.

 

5-6 years ago when I was looking at engine options I called my local engine remanufacturer. They told me it would be $1100 + my core for a short block, with a 36,000 mile warranty.

 

Ummm... ok. I bought a 396 from them and added some options. Here's my feedback:

1) the "rock block" was horrible... obviously never did it before. Both banks were poured and set at the same time... I have the most heavily reinforce outter oil pan rails in LT1 history., :-/

2) when pouring the rock block... there was no passage for the knock sensor to reach the coolant. Fortunately my engine builder had a 18" long flexible drill bit to drill a passage from below and above.

3) the block arrived with nothing more than a big plastic bag wrapped around it. You guessed it... RUST. That took $700 to fix (dissassemble, machine, reassemble).

VRE was great to work with in getting the machine work done and had a great assembly from what I saw, and they even paid for the machining at a local shop to fix the rust issue... but I've seen many short and long blocks since then while working with my engine builder and they ALL come heavily shrink wrapped to keep out moisture. VRE claimed they never ship engines like that and didn't sound like they plan on changing that. I can't picture myself every paying for a VRE shortblock ever again (although maybe an aluminum one.... ).

Go to a local engine builder / tuner and see which local machine shop they reccomend for the shortblock. LT1's are SBC in almost every way.

 

Depends on what parts are used. I had a stock block restored, tanked, honed and all moving bottom end parts refurbished (not assembled) using all the original rotating assy. parts including pistons for around $600 to $700.

 

Yea, in these neck of the woods, it's call $#underbolt Engines and
Transmissions - great prices, but expect the engine or transmission
to go out soon. And if it does, check the warranty clauses. There are
all SORTS of stipulations that will allow them to not honor the warranty.

My brother went through this. Engine overheated because of a blown
head gasket, but they claimed the engine overheating caused the
head gasket to blow, so they didnt honor the warranty.

 

Found this:

http://memphis.craigslist.org/pts/600389447.html

What other parts would I need?

 

Bradley,

During the remanufacturing process, the block is cleaned, inspected, and completely reconditioned including cylinder boring and precision honing. The crankshaft is reground and micro polished and the rods are reconditioned. Then everything is final cleaned and carefully assembled by a highly trained experienced technician using "NEW" pistons, piston rings, bearings, and expansion plugs.

Let me know when you are ready to place your order.

Thanks again,

Joe Friar
Assistant Manager
Carolina Machine Engines
PO Box 187-171 Lee St
Johnston, SC 29832
800-903-6446
www.cmengines.com

Shipping would be $185 Round trip for both blocks,

 

seriously its your choice, but that sounds way to good to be true. call a local machine shop and ask them how much they would want to rebuild your motor, that would be my choice

 

It seems like alot of work and new parts for six hundred bucks, I don't know. Not saying it isn't possible, but it does sound a little too good to be true.

 

I know it does sound like a really good deal, but it seems to be a good company. Has anyone here used them before?

http://www.cmengines.com/

 

Do you really have the time and money to cut corners and have this motor not work out either? You can't cut corners on parts and machine work if you want it to last.

 

If you have a DD just by the lt1/4 book and try it yourself. If you realy dig the car as much as you say than give it a shot ! It will be a great feeling when you learn how to do it yourself. If not just pick up a motor on e bay just make sure you watch feedback of people befor you make the purchase.