Anybody know or can link me to a site with a walk though. like what parts are needed, do I have to have costum lines made. blah blah blah. stuff like that or just tell me how to do it so I can have a weekend project because that abs system has pissed me off for the last time.

 

I'd like to know too (bump)

 

1. disconnect all brake lines going into ABS unit
2. toss abs unit in trash
3. T two front brake lines together with a fitting
4. make a new line from the front brake line T to the master cyl
5. connect the rear brake line to a proportioning valve
6. make a new brake line from prop valve to master cyl
7. remove bulb in dash cluster behind ABS light

i did it in mine and honestly it probably wasnt worth the time it took. Probably dropped about 12 #'s off the car though.

 

got any pic's

 

So you keep the ABS modulator?

 

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ara...m=IM009090.jpg

you can kinda see it in this picture, since then I've completely changed it, but it'll kinda give you an idea.

 

where did you get toe valves from amd did you use hard line or soft line cant tell in the pic.

 

You need to find a good auto parts store that has lots of brake fittings and adaptors. I actually just cut and re-flared my front two lines and put a standard size fitting on there. I used my line lock solenoid in place of a "T" since it has multiple outputs.

 

you think napa would have that type of stuff? by the way you did a great job looks very professional.

 

I got all the fittings I needed except for two at autozone. Napa probably has what you need too. The hardest fittings to find are the metric to standard fittings I put in the master cylinder. I found these at a local chain auto parts store. I think NAPA might be the best place but we dont have many around here, you just have to ask where the brake fitting drawers are. Doing that allowed me to use standard fittings all through the rest of the installation. If you havn't flared brakelines DO NOT cut the stock lines as it is a major PITA to correctly flair the lines while they are on the car. It only took me four tries to get my flares so they wouldn't leak when I re-did my front lines.

The rear line from my experience is made of material that is too hard to flair with a standard flairing tool, so don't make the mistake I did. Don't cut that line, you will regret it later.

Also pick up some universal lines pre-flaired with the correct fittings to use from the mast cyl to the "T", that definately makes it easier, and they usually only cost about $2 each.

Thanks on saying it looks professional, but I don't think anything on my car looks professional anymore.

 

never had a problem with the ABS on my Z, but was having big time problems with it on the crown vic. pulled the ABS fuse, and couldnt be happier no more problems. brakes work like regular brakes. you could always try something simple like that first, and see how it works hth

 

I had problems with the ABS on my old truck so I also pulled the fuse and loved it..

 

I'm pretty sure the brakes work just like normal if you remove the fuse, but I removed everything to clear up some room in the engine bay and shed a few pounds from the engine bay (IIRC the ABS module and bracket weigh about 12 pounds).