Got a set of prothane motor mounts just sitting in a box. I want to put them in but I want to know how I should go about doing it? Do I need to take off anyother parts like the Y-pipe, starter or anything like that? Anyone got an install page?

 

I've never done it personaly. But yea I would think it would make it alot easier to take off the y pipe and starter. And all I know is that just do one side at a time jacking up the motor. But always keep the opposite mount that your working on attatched.

 

Put a jack under the balancer with a 2x4 between it and the balancer. Loosen both bolts that go front to rear one on each mount. Start with the drivers side and take the three bolts that attach it to the block loose all the while having a LITTLE pressure on the jack. If the car starts to go up ya got too much pressure on the jack. Jack the motor up and remove and replace the mount leaving the front to rear bolt in,but loose. Then do the other side and tighten all bolts. Ya may have to take the cast adopter loose on the block to get the pass side out.Thats the BIG piece setting above the mount that bolts to the block.

 

What is a cast adapter and how hard is it to take out? Any pics? So I don't have to take off the y-pipe, or anything like that?

 

No ya don't have to take of any of that other stuff.
Ya will see it -- it bolts to the block and the front to rear bolt goes through it and the mount is below that on the "K" member. If ya have air tools should take about 2 hours.

 

have a sharp drill bit to drill out the rivets in the motor mount, it could be the difference betwwen a piece of cake and a pain in the ***.

 

What rivets???
Don't they come like a factory mount with the metal mount and surrounding metal over the poly?

 

No, they don't come like the factory mount. Wish they did though. Any idea what size drill bit I need? Also what are the sizes for the bolts? Just want to make sure I have everything I need before I start working on it and realize that I'm missing something I need. As for replacing the mounts, I've also heard some people say to loosen both sides at the same time while others say do one side at a time so they don't get out of line. Should I unbolt the trans mount and jack up the trans too?

 

Oh man you are in for a treat. The pass side mount doesnt come with bolts... you only get the poly mount. The drivers side mount is different and requires bolts which should have come with the poly mount. Make sure you dont have 2 identical poly motor mounts because they are indeed different.

Anyway there is no need to jack up the tranny. I used one of those 4 ton hydro jacks and caught that front corner of the block... dont like the idea of jacking the motor up by the balancer but ppl seem to get away with it so thats your call.

I dont remember the size of the drill bit youll need but just make sure they are sharp... I think 1/2" was the largest I needed to get teh cam shell appart. The drivers side mount is a little different though. Youll still need to drill out 2 or 3 rivots but there are 3 studs on the other end holding the cam shell together. The only way I could get them out was by grinding them off... took me a while. Then with the nut/bolt baggy that should have come with the poly mount you bolt the camshell back together.

Its really a PITA and I wouldnt advise touching anything unless you rip out the exhaust manifolds.. basically wait for your header install.

 

Right that would be a hell of an idea though. You have to break the cam shell appart and then hold it together while you bolt it back down to the kmember and block. But the poly mounts are a lot larger than the stock rubber mounts too so the cam shell halves dont line up quite as nice as they once did. Oh and I forgot to mention the pass side mount has too much meat in the corners for the bolts to fit. So you have to trim them down with a razor blade, then test fit, and trim some more, and then test fit. Needless to say didnt have much fun installing poly motor mounts.

But the hard work did pay off... my headers no longer rub anywhere and car feels more solid. btw I also put in a poly trans mount which firmed up the feel even more.

 

Leave the trans alone.
Must have been the ones I have changed have been changed before. That's from '93-2000. I have never seen rivets for anything. Everything had bolts where they bolted to the block,adaptor or "K" mumber.

Did ya get the mounts that are the poly insert without the metal? If so ya will have to drill the 3 rivets and I just went to the shop and looked. The apper to be 1/4" so a 1/4 x 1" bolt will work. Grind the head off of one side and drill them out and put the bolts back in them. There are two that appear to be dowels to line it up with,don't drill those.

I get the black ones allready made up and assembled and they are polly with half the hassle. They are about $120.00 a pair.

 

Are they Prothane or ES? Ill have to go that route next time. As far as I knew you could only order the guts of the mount and had to reuse the stock cam shell.

 

They said they were poly but the black is different than the red. They said the red was stiffer. I can get the red in them on a special order,but I bet they are way more expensive.

 

if i would have known you gould get them with the clam shell i would have went that route.

 

I did mine with E.S. mounts and they come in dif colors if you wanted, say all of your mounts to look nice and uniform. Taking them off was not too bad, the drilling of the rivits and getting the clam shell part was a pain. The real trouble is getting everything lined up when you put them back on. Getting to a couple bolts with very tight clearance as well. I had a hell of a time with completing this job ( like all of my car's installs) untill I used a air ratchet of my dads to drive the long bolt through. I would def. recommend an air ratchet.