LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

hooker short tube help?

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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 09:09 PM
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hooker short tube help?

Hi guys, I'm new to the site and this is my first time posting. I've researched and researched and can find anything... Right now I'm just concentrating on getting the drivers side on as I don't have much time during the day due to work. They are hooker short tubes. I've removed the old manifold. Which sucked! And now I'm on to the install. I've gotten 4 bolts on and tight but am out of ideas for the other two. I did manage to get them started but no idea on getting a tool on there to tighten down. If starting from front of vehicle to rear it's #4 and #5 bolts. Any advice at all will be much appreciated. Maybe a special tool? Apologies if I've posted in the wrong area... Btw to introduce myself and vehicle I live in calera, alabama. Vehicle is a black 1996 SS #1667.


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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 10:18 PM
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Re: hooker short tube help?

I think the rear bolts on the LH side, would be easiest to get to from the bottom of the car.
Old Feb 17, 2013 | 10:33 PM
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Re: hooker short tube help?

The 12 point 5/16 bolts help with getting a wrench on and tightening. I noticed better access with valve covers off too.
Old Feb 18, 2013 | 05:52 AM
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I found no way to get to it from the bottom because of the flange that connects to the cat.. Taking off the valve cover seems like it would help with #4. Not sure about #5. I'll update this evening.


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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 05:51 PM
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Well I'm still in the same boat :/ may I ask where you got those bolts from? Having trouble finding them... Keep advice coming though please.


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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 06:36 PM
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Re: hooker short tube help?

Arp 400-1209. Im pretty sure those would be what I used but I would confirm it first. Summit jegs and a bunch of others will have them. Use antisieze on them. Sometimes a hose slipped over the head can make for easier starting. Use a 5/16 twelve point box wrench to tighten them. I ground an edge on one of my wrenches to make it easier to get on it.
Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:17 PM
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I've found the bolts. I do have the current ones started so that shouldn't be an issue. I will wait to purchase these until confirmed. Just let me know. This is such a pain :/


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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 02:25 AM
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Re: hooker short tube help?

Im pretty certain they are. As long at the thread pitch is correct they are. I would call the tech support at summit or jegs or arp for any greater comfirmation. If you prefer black they do them in the black oxide as well. Alot of people use the 3/4 ones but I prefer the extra threads as I feel it prevents stripping and less apt to loosen. Keep in mind you will want to re-tighten everything after a heat cycle or two. Then possibly another time after a few more heat cycles.
Old Feb 19, 2013 | 05:10 AM
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I really appreciate the help man.


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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 05:34 PM
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Re: hooker short tube help?

A polite, professional reply. A real treat.
Old Feb 19, 2013 | 06:02 PM
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Re: hooker short tube help?

Your welcome. Another note, if they are coated headers the coating burn off is hard on o2 sensors and often ruins them.
Old Feb 19, 2013 | 07:22 PM
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I know they control a/f but I don't see what it could hurt to run the car for a bit to burn the coating then reinstall the o2 sensors. I had to buy a new one anyways due to my... Shall we say, anger issues with this lil project lol


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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 07:24 PM
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(run it with o2 sensors out)


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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 01:37 PM
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Re: hooker short tube help?

I would guess leaving them out would be fine given your car runs decent but I honestly dont know how quick that coating burns off and what the preferred method is. If your worried you might ask it specifically in a new thread. Pay close attention to the wiring going to the o2 that it doesnt end up getting cooked on the header. Im not sure with shorty headers if you will need a harness extention on the passenger side or not but you do with long tubes.
Old Feb 20, 2013 | 01:49 PM
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Re: hooker short tube help?

Remove the O2 sensors before you fire up the engine. The coating and oils from manufacturing will burn off relatively quickly. One or two heat cycles should be more than enough, then you can reinstall them.



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