that is possible but id be more suspicious of that if the BLMs were maxed out.

Rodrigues,

if you want to email me the file Bryan sent you, i can try to bring those BLMs up by increasing the injector constant. did you install some injectors and forget to tell him?

 

LOL I havent ran the car past open loop yet, I dont get why my engine was running fine a while ago!! I dont even know what to think anymroe.

 

if you had the car running for 20 min then it should have reached closed loop. also the fact that you had blms of 108 and 160 tells me the car was in closed loop or they would have been at the default 128 after you reflashed your computer.

 

It was running for 20 mins when I wasnt having all these problems and it could idle... Then like the next day I started it, i was getting horrible backfires and pops, I let the car drop in rpms and it stalled. Tried starting it and nothing, loaded old program, wouldnt start. replaced like 2 plugs and fixed the crossed wires, still wouldnt start. Replaced a few more plugs and loaded my pcm4less program and it started, only at 500 rpm though even though it was WOT. I replaced all my plugs and got it to go way up but I couldnt let go of the gas or else it would die. If I let it go too low and floor it, it takes like 5 or 6 seconds for it to catch up.

 

that sounds complicated. i dunno what to say about it not idling anymore and its strange how it was fine but is now acting up. are you sure those wires were crossed?? how could the car be running better when you had 2 crossed plug wires then now when you dont... maybe they were fine to begin with.

 

Ill re check them again, hold on. I dont see how both banks could be glowing though if one banks wires were crossed. Seems like an entire engines problem, not one or two cylinders.

 

Actually, Turbo_Z is correct, running rich will cause headers to glow red

 

Low and behold, I'm having the same problem. I just got My motor going the other day and notice the headers glowing too. Here's my set up: 383, 190 afr heads, 58mmTB, LT headers, 42 injectors, t-trim w/aftercooler 12#'s for starters. The cam, I'll have the specs on that tommorrow.


I've been told the same possible reason's that you guys have mentioned for the problem. How can I tell if I'm running lean besides getting a wideband O2.

I have tuner cat, and I'm not that expeirenced in it. How/where do I look to see if My timing is retarded to much.

Any help

Thanks
GS355

 

Will your car stay running without adding throttle?

 

Yeah it'll stay running, so I guess it's not exactly in the same boat as you but , the the headers are glowing.

GS355

 

Well I can reset my valve lash, I did the spinning the pushrod method then 1/2 turn. Do you think this overtightened all my valves?!

CAN an opti cause the troubles I have been having?

What is my worst case scenerio?

 

I have my hunch that some people using the "spin the pushrod" method to find zero lash, overlash their rockers. I simply shake the pushrod up and down to find zero lash.

Are you getting lots of false knock at idle? This will cause lots of timing retard which will dump excessive fuel into the headers (and they will glow) and it also plays havoc with the BLM's, usually causing a massive split. It usually leads to a very unstable idle as well.

 

I got 0.3 degrees of knock retard at idle. 0.0 at higher rpm's. This was when my car could idle. My engine can't get below 1500 before it reaches the point of no return. I just pulled the oil dipstick and it looks like pure oil, pulled the valve cover and it looks fine... I did however pull the PCV tube and there was a tan goo but I assumed it was assembly lube. There is still assembly lube on the valves and inside the valve cover.

 

I seem to remember a thread a while back where someone had a similar problem after a cam install. It turned out that the timing gears were installed one tooth off. When they corrected that, it fixed the glowing headers.

 

I was thinking that the timing was off too until he mentioned it ran fine at first