Okay guys it has been a while since I have started a thread becasue I have been searching alot! Here is my plans so far.... Engine is out of the car. I have the block honed at the stock 350. New bearings all the way around. I am sending off my heads to LE1, getting CSI e-water pump, new double roller chain, using same rods and lifters but getting 1.6 rockers. I am also running just the alternator off the crank. I plan on getting a x-pipe for the "true" duals of my jet hot long tubes. (I have a M6) And I am trying to reach the 400 rwhp. Are there any other suggestions on what I need to do now while I have the engine out?


(btw would a underdrive pulley/balencer help if I have just the alternator running?)

 

You can have 700FWHP and drive it.Just 'cause you got it don't mean ya gotta use it.

 

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311982

Check that thread out, might help a bit.

 

Thank you for that thread. But I am really trying to see if I am missing anything while am putting this engine back together. Is there any thing else that I need to hit this 400 rwhp mark?

 

You didn't mention cam. Are you getting a cam from Lloyd Elliott also? What did he say about 400 rwhp with LE1 heads?

Is your goal a peak of 400 rwhp or is it max area under the hp and torque curves in the rpm range you use? There might be a significant difference in performance between those two goals. My vote goes to "max area".

 

think george baxter back in the day use to drive his around on weekends...I know his was running more then 700 rwhp...guess it all depends on how you build it

 

A 100 shot would be about as mild a daily driver as you could get.

 

Just out of curiosity, what kind of setup are you thinking of that promotes the largest area under the curve you use? I dont see many H/C packages advertised that way but I would be interested in which are better for that purpose.

-Dustin-

 

Look at these before-after runs on a cam & valvetrain ONLY swap.

http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics3/Camdynocomp6400.JPG

It's from this thread.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259094

This was done with bone stock heads. Notice the extra area under the torque curves especially in the upper rpm band. There was only about a 24 lb-ft MAX torque increase and a 62 MAX hp increase, but at 6400 there was almost 75 lb-ft more. That's about 90 hp more at that rpm. Add LE1 porting and you should get pretty much the same shape curves but with bigger numbers.

 

Yes I am using the le1 cam with this and yes I want the max area of rpm possible. 400rwhp is the highest I want to go. I just need to know if I am missing anything as I put this beast back together. I believe lloyd said that I will get around 380 rwhp with his heads and his cam. I just need the extra 20 RWHP from something else here.

 

You can pretty much take Lloyd's word to the bank if your engine is in decent shape. My guess is that you'd need a little more cam than the LE1 to get to extra 20. Maybe an LE2 cam, but you'd have to ask Lloyd. It kinda depends on the rest of your car including gear and how you want to drive it. You'll notice that the cam in Jon A's engine does sacrifice a little below 2700, but in the thread you'll see that he had a very specific rpm range he wanted to use.

IMO, it's better to undercam a little that it is to overcam, even if you miss that magic 400 peak number. However, if all you want is the 400 hp, have you considered LE2 heads? Again, ask Lloyd. There are a number of ways to remove the dermis from the feline.

 

O yea I don't doubt Lloyd at all. The 380 mark was what he gave me as a standard. I did not get a chance to tell him about what is on my car. I guess I really to have to speak to Lloyd again but I was really wondering if there are any thing that I am missing in this rebuild. Thank you for your responses on this.

 

Well, Jon A had a stock waterpump and pretty much standard accessories, I think, so there is probably about half of your "missing" ponies. IMO, you ought to look closely at the the entire valvetrain. Just using stock lifters and generic 1.6 aluminum rockers might not give you full benefit from the cam, especially at the higher revs where you will get max power. As Jon A said, if you want the max from your setup, you really should have a custom cam and valvetrain done for it. You'll see that mentioned in that thread also. Be advised that there is some money involved in doing it right.

As was pointed out in the Jon A thread, a larger than stock TB and a manifold matched to the heads as well as a GOOD tune might get you the rest of what you need.

A wise woman said, "You don't always get what you pay for, but you rarely, if ever, get something you DON'T pay for."

 

Sorry that just cracked me up!

If I don't make 425-445 rwhp I'm going to shoot myself.

 

The LE1 heads and cam are pretty much designed as a "best bang for the buck" type of a deal. The cam works well with mild gearing/stall and the springs, retainers, locks used on the heads will work with almost any rocker type, stock type lifters and less expensive pushrods. It will run obviously better with some gear and stall but you can actually get away with mild gearing since the TQ curve comes in so soon. For the $$$ spent, you can not beat the performance you are gonna get from this package.

$200 more would get some laregr valves installed and make snother 10 HP or so and still have the same RPM range and drivability.

The LE2 set up will use a much more aggressive lobe and require much stiffer springs, 7/16 studs, Comp Pro Mag NSA rockers, guide plates, Hi Tech pushrods, etc. This requires more gear and stall as well. The LE2 head and cam will cost more due to the extra $$$ spent valves, springs, retainers, lcoks, locators, etc. You will need to spend more $$$ on the other parts like the rockers, pushrods, etc, mentioned above as well so the difference in price og getting each set up running is usually gonna cost more than just the price difference between the 2 packages. Unless you already have all of the good valve trane parts mentioned, you will need to spend more $$$ getting the more expensive parts mentioned.

Just depends on how fast you can afford to go.

Lloyd Elliott
972-617-5671
NightTrain66@msn.com