ALRIGHT I HAVE A 94 Z-28 MY PROBLEM OCCURS WHEN I AM AT LOW RPM 1000-2000, AND GIVE IT SLIGHT ACCELERATION SO THAT IT DOESNT DOWN SHIFT. I EXPERIENCE A JUMPING OF FOWARD MOMENTUM. WHATS THE DEAL...I JUST BOUGHT THE CAR. I REPLACED THE FUEL FILTER AND CHANGED THE OIL.








1994 CAMARO Z-28 LT-1, AUTOMATIC TRANS
ONLY MODS: SS HOOD, RK SPORT REAR STEP UP WING, FLOWMASTER, EASY MAF SCREEN REMOVAL.

 

it could be a number of things, it is a common occurence with our cars. try putting the screen back in your maf and see if that helps.

how does the car run otherwise?

and turn the CAPS LOCK off

jesse

 

Common problem..first things to check..change out fuel filter..put some good injector cleaner in the gas tank,I use redline.
Change plugs.Wires if car has high miles.Possibly could be leaking egr valve that if fairly common.Replace tps is car has high miles and by high miles likely over 50,000. Make sure air cleaner is clean,clean maf wires especially if you have oil type air filter.

Possibly put in new coil or aftermarket coil.And if all that don't work its likely the optipuke.You can change out the whole thing,the cap and rotor or put in one of the new systems like delteq.

Likey its one of the above.

 

80TA THANKS FOR ALL THE GOOD ADVISE. COUPLE QUESTIONS THOUGH. HOW MUCH IS IT TO CHANGE OUT THE OPTISPARK? ALSO THATS A PRETTY HARD JOB ISNT IT? ALSO WHAT IS A TPS (THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR? IF SO WHERE IS THE LOCATION?) IN THE PROCESS OF DOING EVERYTHING ELSE. PLUGS AND WIRES ARE TODAYS PROJECT.

AND QCKZ28, THE PROBLEM WAS OCCURING BEFORE I TOOK OUT THE SCREEN. THANKS THOUGH

 

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR


And yes the opti is hard to change.

 

Optis are a big pain to change..gm put it in a supremely stupid place.You have to take off water pump..just did that in my car and that is very messy job.you have to remove air pump and move coil out of way.You have to take off balancer can be not much fun as it gets stuck on there after awhile and thats about it.
I woudn' say it super hard job just not much fun.

Optis vary if you just buy cap and rotor or whole unit.The optical unit supposedly hardly ever goes bad the cap and rotor corrode like any cap and rotor so changing them is usually sufficient.

I have no plans to change out my cap and rotor even once.Several companies like delteq make opti replacement
that let you eliminate the failure prone cap and rotors.
They are not cheap but either is replacing the opti stuff again and again especially if you pay someone else for labor

I think you will find changing plugs and wires enough challenge in these lt1s they aren't fun either.good luck.I haven't changed out mine yet.One reason is if upgrade to the delteq system they come with new wires and route them different.

Sorry if I have confused you a bit.

 

Yes see he gave the tps link.Its a five minute change.You don't even have to calibrate it.Plug and play baby.And has solved problems like this in many cars.They wear and get flat spots in certain rpm ranges.

 

I would start with the simple things first like plugs and wires... cleaning off MAF sensor(very carefully!) and maybe look to see if all the peices of your intake duct are tight and installed correctly. Sometimes the intake elbow to the TB gets folded and torn when its put back on which can cause a whole host of troubles. IMO new plugs and wires will solve the problem for you.

 

UGH...ALRIGHT I REPLACED THE PLUGS AND WIRES (PAIN IN THE A$$) NOW THE PROBLEM IS WORSE. ONE CYL ISN'T FIRING AND I THINK IT IS # 2 BUT IT HAS SPARK AT THE PLUG... NEEDING SOME IDEAS IM GETTIN MAD. ALL PLUG GAPPING IS GOOD. DOES THE TPS CONTROL SPARK?

 

look for arcing all along the plug wires. double check all the plugs are in firm. check to make sure both ends of the wires are firmly secured

 

Tps only controls fuel..Like was said with new wires should be good to go and with new plugs as well.Shouldn't run worse with new wires unless one isn't on the plug or opti all the way.
Makes no sense .Are you monitoring your car with a scantool.??

 

OK, I STARTED IT UP LAST NIGHT AND WATCHED FOR ARCHING AND I SAW ARCHING COMING FROM THE COIL AREA, THE WIRES WAS SEATED ALL THE WAY ON THE OPTI AND THE COIL BUT IT WAS COMING OUT OF 3 DIFFERENT AREAS OF THE WIRE AND IT IS A BRAND NEW WIRE. IT WAS COMING OUT OF THE SIDE OF THE WIRE LIKE THERE WERE HOLES IN THE SIDE OF IT. ALSO COMING OFF OF THE COIL ASSEMBLY ITSELF (IT WAS JUMPING FROM THE ROUND HOUSING AND JUMPING TO THE METAL SQUARE SURROUNDING IT)<---THAT MAKE SENSE? ALSO NO I DONT HAVE A SCAN TOOL.

 

Scantool would show you misfires and what cylinder was misfiring if you have 96/97 car.forget what year you have.And pretty sure you should see zero arcing anywhere with new wires and not from coil either.
What brand did you buy..??

Its so much fun to change them out too!!

 

try adjusting the plug wires so they are as far as possible from metal parts, also wouldn't be a bad idea to buy an MSD coil, they're cheap and effective.

as far as the arcing you described, that's normal arcing. A blueish arc that makes a popping noise thats pretty easy to hear.

did you check to make sure plugs were snug also?

*EDIT* - How dirty is your air filter, that could cause problems at low RPMs.

 

FINALLY I GOT IT RUNNING BACK TO WHAT IT USED TO BE. I CHECKED ALL THE WIRES AND GAPPED ALL THE PLUGS, ALSO PURCHASED AN ACCEL COIL. THAT FIXED MY MAJOR PROBLEM. HOWEVER I STILL HAVE THAT HESITATION THAT MADE ME START THIS WHOLE PROJECT. BUT I THINK THAT FIXING ALL THIS STUFF WOULD PRETTY MUCH NARROW IT DOWN TO THE OPTISPARK. I WENT TO PURCHASE A SCANTOOL YESTERDAY AND I THOUGHT WE HAD OBD-2 BUT THE SCANTOOL SAID FOR 1996 AND NEWER. I HAVE A 1994 IS IT OBD1 OR OBD2?