The thread that will never die....LOL....what's the record for the number of posts and views anyhow? We even close?

My Z now has just started its second life - my goal is another 100k trouble-free miles.

Did a major tune-up consisting of a new Opti, water pump, timing set, plugs, wires, ECT & MAP sensors, IM gaskets (leaky biotch), TPS, cleaned IAC & TB. All told, about $800 in parts. (thanks to Dal!)

Runs like a dream once again, no more silly miss or hesitation (well, that is after I tracked down the broken insulator on the brand new plug in #6, grrrr).

 

Might as well add my name to that list also, mine has been doing it since I have had it, 6 months or so. This seems like a popular enough problem that someone would have a definate answer/solution to it.

As for the TSB, it stands for Technical Service Bullitin, or something close to that. They are bullitins companies make available to dealership and such when they find defects, constant problems, etc.

 

We know what a TSB is, we were loooking for the repair info on it. I don't have a subsciption for the service because I don't use it enough. Maybe 1 or 2 times a year. I was hoping someone has a shop or something with a subsription to the repair info and could look it up.

 

We know what a TSB is, we were loooking for the repair info on it. I don't have a subsciption for the service because I don't use it enough. Maybe 1 or 2 times a year. I was hoping someone has a shop or something with a subsription to the repair info and could look it up.

 

YOU might know what a TSB is, but someone said they didn't know what it was so I explained it. That or I misunderstood that persons post.

I had someone run that TSB number that was posted and the info I found is here http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=168486

 

Well... I read through all 8 pages of this and I didnt once see anyone mention the inlet air temp sensor. I heard about someone else fixing their problem with the IAT sensor and it was only $10 at any auto parts store so I figured I would give it a try. As it turned out, it fixed about 90% of my hesitation. Its not completly gone but its a ****load better than before. Whats happening is its telling the PCM that the air is a different temp that what it really is (ie: 60 deg out when its really 100) and the PCM is making adjustments for that. When its colder outside, it doesnt really effect the car because its already reading that its cold but once it heats up, it makes things act all crazy. I still have a little bit to check on but for now, it feels much better than before.

Next on the list to replace is the coolant temp sensor thats located on the water pump housing. That is the sensor that tells the PCM the water temp. There is a seperate one that sends the signal to the gauge if I remember correctly.

 

You mentioned someone replacing their IAT. That might have been me. I've replied to similar topics on several other boards. I saw that solution in a local Camaro board, and tried it. So far, so good. The car runs as good as an 115000mi LT1 can be expected to. Still need to replace the Opti some time, but it is running fairly well, now, with none of the low RPM part-throttle surging I had been experiencing. Obviousley not the solution in all cases, but if you're going to be throwing parts at the problem, might as well start with a cheap one ($8.99 at Autozone)

 

I'm going to revive this thread with another experience.

Here at the shop we just finished installing a '94 LT1 and 4L60E into a '67 Camaro. We used a Painless harness, all of the sensors that came with the motor, and new GM O2 sensors. After finishing the install we started the car and it ran like crap. Misfired out of the exhaust, idled high, and hesitated really bad. We started throwing parts at it that we knew it almost certainly needed. After replacing the TB and IAC gaskets the high idle problem went away, but the poor idle problem was still there, along with a significant lack of power and backfiring out of the exhaust. We swapped on some spare parts we had in the shop to try to diagnose the problem, including a spare IAC, TPS, MAF, a new Opti (the bearing on the old one was shot), injectors, and MAP sensor. Nothing fixed it. We picked up a set of injector noid lights and discovered that, interestingly, the passenger side injectors were firing fine, but the driver's side were only firing intermittantly. I did some investigative work (including reading this entire thread) and discovered that the engine computer has two injector drivers (thanks to Bryan Herter at www.pcmforless.com for the help), one for the driver's side, one for the passenger's side. Apparently one of the drivers in our PCM is bad. I'm going to bring in a stock computer tomorrw and see if it fixes it, but we're 90% sure that's the problem.

-Chris

 

WOW I seriously thought this thread was dead. Anyhow, just thought I'd share my experience with this problem. After changing the plugs and wires (even though they looked fine) the problem is now gone. Correct me if I'm wrong but many of the things listed in this thread can cause this issue. The only way to know which one is actually effecting you is to scan the car or to throw new parts at it. I guess I was lucky with the plugs and wires.

Drew

 

I just fixed my problem tonight. It was a Quad Driver Module failure of my PCM. Replace pcm. Another guy had it happen recently too.

 

We'll I guess I'll chime in and try to keep this thread alive. A4 same problems, miss ONLY when hot and between 1k and 2k, just started happened recently. The car has always had poor performance when hot, but until this night, it has never missed like this, this is was serious, and it came all at once real bad, then the next day and ever since, its just been following textbook 1k-2k only when hot miss....

I bought the car at 75k, since then I've changed the plugs, wires, fuel filter, relocated(clean) IAC to airfilter(KN CAI), and reprogrammed computer. Since all of these parts I've put alot of mi on the car, im up to 97k now, i was drving home a couple days ago and this happened:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=203430

We'll I've got some options I guess, I will go ahead and WASTE money swapping parts, b/c i dont know ANYONE with a scanner and I dont wanna deal with a dealer AT ALL. So I guess I'll start with the coil and maybe a new fuel filter....and guess I'll try spacing out the old coil first.

What do you guys think upon just looking over this......

 

i posted in here:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...62#post1652562
today tooo....please look.

 

Opti, OPti, OPTI!!! replace it! Quit B/s'ing and replace it. Not just the cap and rotor, not just the base, THE WHOLE THING!! get one from more performance for cheap, or one from dynotech(or is it dynatech?) for not so cheap. all the systems you are talking about are related,cooling, timing, all that stuff, the pcm uses to tell the coil when to cut on and when to cut off.ever heard the saying garbage in(faulty optispark output), garbage out(timing all over the place). throw in a knock sensor trying to do its thing, too. all these together = your problem. Replace that ****.
any questions?

 

OK Fastbird93, where can I pick a pcm up cheap for a 93? I've got 4 different chips one from MGF, Superchips, Ed Wright, and Z industries. The only one that doesn't trigger the QDM is the Ed chip. But out of those 4 the best performing chip is the Superchip that came w/ my stroker EVEN w/ the QDM failure. GO figure.

So where can one be bought? Thanks and I'm glad you finally got the bird running again.

 

We'll I replaced the opti and nothing else igntion related, aka I did'nt touch, remove, or replace either the plugs, wires, or coil. I just changed the opti and it fixed everything, all is perfect again, no miss at all, car seems like it has 100% more power when its hot now in the low rpms.....which it never did, even back when I first got it. But no power increase really overall or fuel economy either, i though i would get a bit more MPG back outta the swap, but no, same old, same old. I was surprised, espicially considering that when my old opti was taken off, you could spin the input shaft manually and it made some pretty horrible noises , definete bearing issues, where as the new delco opti was perfectly quiet operation manually.....who knows. They might be pretty tough units after all, just no tolerance for low rpm problems.
my .02
thanks guys