I pulled my engine for a AI heads/cam install and to splay the bottom end. As in most of my projects, it's going into overkill trying to do all things right. I dropped the block/rotating assembly off for machining and balancing. The guy asked me what rings I was going to run but haven't figured it out. He recommended Total Seal. I've searched the forums but didn't see much help.

I'm reusing the stock internals and keeping the displacement the same. I won't be running nitrous or a blower. I'm shooting for 11.4 to 1 compression ratio.

Which rings do you guys recommend?

 

why splay a stock bottom end? id put that money into some better rods and some light weight forged pistons first.

 

I have heard good things about hellfire rings, but not sure why.

 

You said you're going into overkill to do things right, but you aren't boring the motor? Why splay a stock bottom end? The advantages to splaying are to support higher RPMs. You're limiting yourself with the stock bottom end.

...anyway. I used Total Seal in my 383.

 

I'm splaying it to give me piece of mind. With the cam I got, I'll be spinning it up to 6400-6600 rpm.

I didn't want to put new pistons/rods in now when I want to bore/stroke it later on. The stock bottom end should be fine with this setup. Should I be concerned?

 

You've considered the cost of having the machine work done to splay the stock bottom end, right? You realize it requires complete disassembly of the lower end, and that the mains will need to be align-bored right?

What you want to do is not cheap. And if you're really looking to take the stock pistons, rods, rings, and (worst of all) rod bolts to 6600rpm, you have bigger ***** than me. Splayed mains won't keep the rod bolts from failing.

If you ask me, do your full engine build now.

 

6600 rpm's on a stock bottom?

 

you don't need splayed caps.... I have stock 2 bolts caps with no issues at 8k. ( I know its beating the **** out of them but I don't care...its holding up)

Just get a set of hasting rings and rehone the block. Check the cyl. for taper etc and it will do fine. I have done quite a few cars like that for people and they run fine. 6500 rpm stock bottoms. I just dissassembled, cleaned and changed a few minor clearances and put it back together.

I wouldn't run thos hellfire rings...

 

This opinion is more then likely better than mine, Sometimes its hard to move all the bs to find the best of the best hehe.

 

Thanks for the responses.

The block is already at the machine shop. Like I said, I wanted to do it and had the means to do it. Price wasn't too bad. Still cheaper than boring/stroking now.

I know the rod bolts are the weak link but didn't think they would be a problem for a NA setup at this rpm. Can I replace the bolts with ARP or would I need to check for roundness in each rod afterward?

 

roundness wouldn't matter because you cannot hone out cracked cap powdered metal rods.

 

you are supposed to resize a rod when you change bolts.

 

yes but i was told you cannot do that on the powdered metal rod that comes oem.

 

Is this true? Does anybody know for sure. I always thought you could get stock rods resized. I spun some bearings about 10k ago and decided not to resize when I changed bearings since I didn't let it get to a hard knock,just low oil psi (none when hot)and a squeaking sound. Motor still runs great since the rebuild. Resizing is required when rods are pounded to an egg shape correct?

 

This is an interesting question. I have heard that you need to resize when replacing rod bolts, but experience has shown that you do not. I built a couple of ahem, Spec Miata engines, and replaced the rod bolts, but did not resize the rods. One has gone nearly a year of road racing at 7500rpm for sustained periods, the other one has seen about the same time just in practice. No problems on either of them. Having said that, I think that it is cheap insurance to do it and I will be in the future.