does anyone know how deep the threads are in a LT1 cranks snout, I know the bolt is 2 1/4". Thanks





1997 Camaro SS #1039 M6
LE1 2.00-1.56 valves, LE Matched Intake, Holly 58mm, CC306, 1.6 Pro Magnums and 918's, 30lb injectors, Pacesetter Long tubes, TTL exhaust, No Emissions, Mad Z28 Tune, 4:10’s, C5 Brakes, Level II Suspension, Sphon LCA'S, Spohn Panhard, Hotchkis bars, Hotchkis STB, BFG KDW’s.

2005 Cobalt SS (daily driver) stock

 

anyone?

 

I know that the ARP bolt for a generation 1 small block is about 3/16" too long. I've found that I need to shorten the ARP bolt by about 1/4" in order to get it to seat correctly on an ATI damper hub. I know that answer is a little roundabout but that's my observation. I rarely deal with a stock bolt/damper so that's the best I can do.

I'm sure that Shoebox can tell you precisely.

Good luck

 

thanks, the reason I ask is cuz i broke the bolt off in the snout putting on a ATI superdampener and wanted to know if I bottomed the threads out. Basiclly should I use an easyout, drill it out and heli-coil it or mig weld a nut on the end. what a crappy thing to happen but I think I can get it out their is only 3/4 of bolt in the snout. lol

 

How much (if any) of the bolt is protruding from the end of the crank? By far the most desirable would be to weld a nut on the end of the bolt. This is one of those situations in which the best approach is the simplest one that will work. You don't want go to the the most extensive solution until you've eliminated the rest of the options. If it's bottomed out in the hole, you probably won't be able to get it out with an EZ-out and getting it out without damaging the threads will be tough.

Good luck on this one.

c

 

It is about a 1/8" in from the surface. Im afraid to weld it and make it harder than it already is cuz if it doest work than im going to have a super hard bolt to drill.

 

I'm no expert on this process but I'd not try welding anything to the bolt if it's broken off inside the crank. I'd try to drill down the center of the bolt with a pilot hole (maybe 1/4") dead center in the bolt. Use a new, sharp bit. Be really careful not to break off a bit in the crank! If you can keep it in the center, and you get a good, straight start, you shoule take the hole diameter wider, one drill size at a time. If it's wedged in the bottom of the hole you're going to be at this for a while. If it's not bottomed, it may come out fairly easily with an EZ-Out. Don't get in a hurry and break something else off in the hole. If you're lucky, you might get it out without damaging the threads in the hole beyond repair.

 

This is why you don't use the bolt to pull the hub or damper on. It's been repeated many times, but never enough.

You might also try a left hand drill bit. Some PB Blaster could not hurt, either.

I can post the depth of the hole tomorrow.

 

I just measured a stock crank and it was 1.5 inches deep.

 

Well I got it out! Took about a hour and half. I drilled it out to 1/4 and tried the biggest easy out I had #5 I believe. No luck the bolt was in too tight, so tight I could turn the crank with it in 1st on the ground with a parking brake! I ended up just taking the hole up bigger to the point where there was just a little bolt in there. I thanks took a small chisel and cracked the carcus and popped it out. What a pain in the ***. I wanted to use a left handed bolt and tap but no store had one or knew where to get one. I think that would be the best way to get it out. I used some colbalt bit which cut threw the bolt in no time. Im gonna go buy an install tool now Thanks for the help guys



1997 Camaro SS #1039 M6
LE1 2.00-1.56 valves, LE Matched Intake, Holly 58mm, CC306, 1.6 Pro Magnums and 918's, 30lb injectors, Pacesetter Long tubes, TTL exhaust, No Emissions, Mad Z28 Tune, 4:10’s, C5 Brakes, Level II Suspension, Sphon LCA'S, Spohn Panhard, Hotchkis bars, Hotchkis STB, BFG KDW’s.

2005 Cobalt SS (daily driver) stock

 

Congratulations! Glad we could help.

There are only about 50 more such things that can cause you similar grief when you're working on these cars. As a general rule of thumb, anything can be broken if you apply enough leverage. Breaker bars and long-handled ratchets are among the most dangerous tools in the box.

c