ok well i noticed this yesterday, when i accelerated up this hill i think its about 30% grade or so, i could only hit 30... well today thats all i could really drive the entire time! low end power sucks and kinda has been goin down hill for the last 1000 miles, and my top end does nothing... i cant go past 30 in 1rst gear, thats as high as it gets. then second gear isnt powerful enough to pull at 30 mph i cant get up to speed

 

Did you buy a honda? Actually, I have no clue whats going on. Maybe not getting fuel. Any codes set off?

 

i dont have a scanner wish i did

its pinging the whole time and its running hot too...

on the freeway its running 210 consistantly or more

usually its about 190

 

With the engine off, disconect your MAF. Turn her on. Your SES light will come on, and Both fans will kick in, Dont worry. Drive her for about 10 minutes on a flat road and then try the inclined again....(with the MAF disconected that is) If the problem goes away and power comes back again then have someone with a good MAF swapp it to your car and test her again or run to Autozone and have her scanned....

Your car should be able to fly on that hill like youre going down the hill... If you already changed your fuel filter then check your fuel pressure... Sounds like youre car is running sooo lean your PCM cant compensate any longer.


Let me tell you what is been happeing to me.....tonite I just came back from doing two WOT runs with the MAF off. The first run I had to abort it after about 6 seconds because she didnt hook up the tires on 1st gear..(sweet). She was upto 5k RPMs and all over the road!!!(sweeet) So I Went back and babyed her off the hole and hammered the gas... All my power came back and I had " 0 " knock retard!!! Nothing!! Nada!! (sweet)... the knock sensor counts did not increase one number (Sweet again) but thats not the beggining of the story, read on.

No, I am not braggin, Let me explain. Just a few WOT runs ago (couple of nites ago) I was loggin from 9*degrees to 14* degrees of Knock retard.... She wouldnt even chirp the tires off the hole. Nothing, Nada. During normal driving my scanner logs showed the PCM continuously pulling fuel as if she was running too rich yet she was always pinging and pulling timing off... 1 or 2 degrees average and pretty bad when I was at 50 percent throttle.... I checked everything and it checked out ok... except for the MAP sensor that gave me a couple of weird readings a couple of times.... I got me a new one but it didnt fix my problem....Back to square one. Two days ago I disconected the MAF and inmediately noticed my fuel problems going away. First the Fuel trims went back to normal and the slowly the pinging went away after a few minutes or normal driving. Tonite I figured the PCM had stabilized and went for a WOT run. All my power is back!!! (sweeeeet).

In short.. if I connect the MAF sensor she runs lean, looses power, knocks and pings under load. If I Disconect the MAF sensor, the fuel goes back to normal, power comes back and no longer knocks and pings... strange as it may seem I dont think I have a MAF problem. I think I have a leak somewhere between the MAF and the Throttle plates. I did not check today but I will check tomorrow.

You and I maybe suffering of the same problem, only, yours is way more severe than mine. I have to try a good MAF in the car before I decide is defective. I dont really think its the MAF though, because all its scanned readings are within specs....so what gives??

Try the test I mentioned and if your power comes back then you and I have the same problem. I think we may call the Fuel gurus in this website to diagonose our problem.


Marvin


Have you checked your fuel pressure lately?

 

If your very careful you can clean your Maf. You can use electric parts cleaner to clean it.

 

Thanks for your post... I cleaned up mine already but I dont know about Newbies MAF.


Marvin

 

Look into what 1982z28with18s said. Could be the fuel pump. I had the same problem with my Honda. Yes, totally different car, but it was acting the same way.

 

metalcase, I appreciate your lengthy report, i tried it... it gave me a little more power, but still 4300 rpms is as high as WOT will go, now i have a little more lower end so i can drive it from here to there the last mile of my trip home (w/o the MAF connected the same situation occured where it was hard to get it to go anywhere) didnt drive up that steep hill its accually more like a 40% grade or more. i should figure it out.

ohh well, your solution didnt help much, ive had several problems w/ my plug wires...

the first day i noticed it, i was pretty angry at my car so the next day i changed the plug wires to a known bad set i used a little bit of electrical tape to possibly extinguish the problem (slices in the rubber) the ones that were on there i tried to route differently and they ended up being burnt by the exhaust manafolds.

so these last 1000 miles those have been being burnt... well yesterday i put those known bad ones back on w/ the tape those are new but they were cut by the pulleys 1000 miles ago they probably have 500 miles on them.

these 3 nights the last mile or two have been really a struggle on the engine, last night the most.

i havent checked the fuel pressure i donno how really i looked in my haynes book and the pictures were to general to figure out what is supposed to be checked.

 

Sounds like you have a pluged cat.

 

Yse,I say cat goin south for the winter.My02

 

If its pinging and running hot, doesn't that mean its running extremly lean, which would probably be caused by a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump?

 

ive been thinking about this, and think its quite possible, i would think its running hot because it cant get all the exhaust out of the system... it heats up really quick and doenst go back under 210 after its warm even at 80mph+ (when i can get it up that quick)

 

This happened to me, It would run good when cold for awhile but then slow down and start to get hot. It was a plugged cat, fix it fast or it can damage your engine.

 

Dude the Fuel pressure before you go into the CAT thing.

Yes they are right you may have a plugged CAT. I would still check the fuel pressure though, at least you can mark it off your list of possible problems.

From the passenger side, reach to the back of the Intake manifold a few inches away fron the EGR. You will see a metal tube conected to the Fuel pressure regulator. it has a metal valve with a plastic cap on it. Turn the cap counter clockwise to remove it. The valve looks like one of those in your Tires except that its all metal. If you like screwing things other than your G/F you can then screw your fuel pressure gage right there.

Caution do it while the engine is cold.. cause some fuel may sip out when your screwing the fuel pressure gage on... you will also need a small Gasoline proof container to purge your fuel pressure gage...the gage comes with instructions.

Get your pen and a piece of paper,,, turn you key to ON (engine off) prior to the crancking position and record your fuel pressure... turn engine on and record your fuel pressure at idle... and last... remove the vacum signal to the fuel pressure regulator and record your fuel pressure at idle again.

Your readings should be about 40psi engine off.... 36psi at idle with vacum conected and 46psi at idle with vacum disconected... give or take a few psi....


Ok now for some reason I am really believing is your CAT... but I would still check fuel pressure first though.. nothing to loose.

Marvin

 

ok when i turned off my car today i got on my knees and looked at the cat (heard that sometimes if its clogged it'll glow red) and i noticed something was gurgling/growling (the car is off)

today i had a little more ease climbing the hill, was doing 35 in second gear, before i couldnt do anything in second.

i still have that maf disconnected, im worried i wont be able to check my fuel pressure correctly... and i dont have any gages or anything, what do i need to buy?