I have been experienceing a tickin noise under my valve cover...took it to a shop and my rocker arm had slid off of the push rod...they said i needed lifters cause mine wern't pumping correctly...and i found a lifter kit at SDPC.com for $215 and i will get gaskets too...but the shop is tryin to charge me like $800 to swap them out....so i was wondernin if i could do it(if so directions) and how hard and long would it be??? it would be me and my dad and we both know our way around cars and have the tools to do it...so any help would be very much appericated...

 

You may want to check out Shoebox's website

http://shbox.com/ci/cam_removal.html

This link will take you to camshaft removal which is much further than where you need to go. However there are some good pictures in this section that might be useful.

You'll need to remove the intake manifold and valve covers, then you should be able to R&R the lifters. It depends on how comfortable you are with the procedure.

 

It is a very easy job, if that is the true cause of the rocker falling off.

Basically take the intake off, and you will see exactly what you have to do. I think it's better to dive in and try to fix it rather than having someone spell out exactly what procedures to follow. Look at where things go and take pictures if you have to.

Remove intake, replace lifters, reassemble pushrods/rockers and pre-load at 3/4 turn past zero lash.

If you need more info than that grab a chiltons book.

 

It's simple just remove the intake and valve covers, replace lifters, install intake, relash the valves and install valve covers.

 

The great feature about Shoebox's article is that it gives tips on how to remove the fuel rail, egr, and other connectors that may be in the way if you never removed the intake before.

It isn't very difficult but that is up to you.

I had a buddy who changed his oil which I thought was a no-brainer... until we took off in his truck and locked the engine up about a mile later.

 

appericate all tha input....i will be startin tha swap later this week after christmas...i'll post my results...thanks

 

that makes me ill to think it costs that much for such an easy job. that should be motivation enough to do it yourself.
there are all kinds of writeups on how to do this. if you've never delved this far into your engine then plan on a couple full days of work. once again it's an easy job, but do your homework before twisting wrenches.

 

slowbird - survey says go for it. If you get stuck, you'll get plenty of support from here.

 

thanks alot....i keep yall posted...

 

I'm not sure your real problem is the lifters not pumping up. Sounds like a "standard shop answer" without a real investigation ($$$$). How many miles does your car have on it? People often put 200K on their LT1s and don’t have lifter pump-up problems. I think the lifter roller going bad is a more common problem. Valve springs fatigue more often than lifters going bad. Also, I would first readjust (0-lash) all the lifters and run it easy for a while and see what happens. It could have been an adjustment issue.

WD

 

Why does everyone want to run lifters designed for .060 preload at 0 lash?? Crane picked up power by running more preload on their lifters....

 

i've asked the same question over and over again... i think it's completely retarded to run a hydraulic lifter at zero lash.

 

When I said “0-lash adjustment” I was simply referring the “process” of hydraulic lifter adjustment using the standard published procedure, either, ½, 0r ¾ turn past the zero point. I was trying to point him in the right direction and not get into the details of the actual procedure.

However, we’re off-track now with this issue. Again, I think he should readjust “all” the lifters and run it some after the adjustment. I’m not sure he really needs new lifters.

Is everyone convinced the lifters are his problem?

WD

 

Not after thinking about it a bit more. It would be better to re-adjust the rockers to see what happens and go from there.

 

We don't really know if the lifters were correctly adjusted to begin with? This could possibly save him some time and money (simple things first when looking for a problem). And, the adjustment is free if you do it yourself.

WD