So my car threw a 36 code (hi res failure) last night and I cleared it. This morning go out to start it up and it won't fire. No spark at all. I just replaced this opti in October. I replaced the one before that in April. And the one before that a one year ago. WHAT IS BURNING UP MY OPTI?? This last time I replaced my water pump thinking maybe it was going out and was spitting water onto them, also my coolant level liked to stay low. So now the coolant level is going down again.

What causes water to seep out the weep hole in the pump? This is the only thing I can think of that would be causing my opti's to go out like this.

My possible theory: I have a bad head gasket. If I get on it at all (which is few and far between) then the pressure from the combustion chamber gets into the water system and over pressurizes it, causing the weep hole to open up and get coolant all over my opti. I don't burn coolant when sitting around, but I possibly have noticed some smoke burning out the back when getting on it. Head gasket?? And what other signs would show this to be true?? There is no coolant in the oil. Is my theory crazy?

Sorry so freakin long, but I'm fed up with this thing!!! Any and ALL help is greatly appreciated.

Kyle

 

Usually, moisture in the Opti-Spark causes high-voltage (cap and rotor) problems.
In your case, you are saying you have a code 36, which I think is a low-resolution pulse missing problem (don't have my manual here).

Do you have a 95 style (vented) Opti-Spark?
If so, are you sure the cam dowel pin isn't too long causing pressure on the bearing and causing it to fail?

Another thing to look for is a corroded electrical harness connection at the Opti-Spark.


Tom Piper

 

I agree must be something 'causing' the opti's to fail. Rebuilt units can be bad, but the chances of getting so many bad in a row is very remote.

I would check all that was mentioned and fix water pump leakage. Opti's hate moisture and anti freeze is the worst since it doesn't evapoate and will leave quite a residue.

Also when you replace the opti this time you can try to seal the cap with some RTV. The main leakage point is obviously the top area. You might also fabricate a water shield from sheet metal to deflect water away from the opti. I did the sealing never tried a deflector, but might be worth trying

Good luck

Ps I looked up the code and in datamaster the code is hi res

 

If you have water coming out of the water pump weep hole, that's your number one suspect on killing the opti.

 

Are the optis really burning up or are they physically breaking like the rotor? If you set them up wrong the rotor will bind and break but if its a moisture problem then check out the waterpump... make sure the vent hoses are all hooked up properly. Look at the opti harness... is the connection good, terminals look burnt or anything out of the ordinary?

 

when you get ready for a "great" opti check out
www.dynotech-eng.com they have a great product

i have one on my car for about 2 years now and it runs perfect
and is the most dependable car i have ever driven.

 

By chance, is the connector that goes to the opti getting melted plastic in it? Reason I ask is because one of my buddy's cars had this same problem. I think he went through 3 optis in a few months. He wasn't pushing the opti all the way on so it wasn't seated and was putting pressure on the bearing inside the opti. The heat would kill the optis. Make sure you are pushing the opti all the way on, until the 'ears' sit flush on the front cover.

 

Ok, few things:

1. Opti plug was never the best looking during the first two so the last change I got a new one (Casper's). Just was visually looking at it from the top and it's sealed and still looks brand new up top, haven't unplugged it yet though.

2. All of the opti's I've put on were brand new Delcos from the dealership. My dad owns an auto electric service shop and we have a wholesale account.

3. Our shop has the $2000 Snap-on real-time scanner. I KNOW it was a hi res failure cause it threw the code for me twice in a row last night, then drove home fine, then wouldn't start this morning. It would throw the code ONLY when trying to start.

4. My car is a '95. I'm putting a vented opti on it just like from the factory. My car has 167,000 miles on it. I'm fairly certain there's no way the cam dowel is too long for the opti.

5. All of the opti's I've put on have gotten a good 3000-6000 miles on 'em before they quit. The first one was completely broken up inside, but it probably had over 30k miles. The others didn't seem to be broken up inside. I still have the last one, I guess I could take it apart.

6. I don't think there's much of a chance I've mis-seated 3 optis in a row. To do that the ears wouldn't sit flush and I would most certainly not mistake that 3 different times. I could be wrong though, it's happened before!


I'm going to look at it here in a little while. I was knee deep into a full audio install in it so the whole interior is apart right now. I'm finishing that up then will tackle the engine. I'd rather not spend MORE money on a dynatech one that I know is going to bust in a couple of months. I want to fix this problem! How bad does the residue have to be around the weep hole to show that it's been leaking?

Thanks a bunch for the help so far guys,
Kyle

 

What's up Kyle, I know you may not want to hear this, but I had the very same problem with optis, burned up three in less than two years. This is a venture that can get expensive. So I decided to go Delteq and my problems have gone away, (two years and still running). Since I've installed the Delteq my z28 seems to run smoother and rev deep into the rpms with no hesitation. I would suggest that if you are going to keep your z28, then give the Delteq system a try, you will not be dissapointed. Try Delteq.com.

 

If you can hold out, MSD has a new opti that will be out by spring. It is a complete opti, upgraded over the GM one. Of course it probably won't be cheap.

If it looks as if any coolant has come out of the weephole at all, the pump is bad.

 

You need both the low-res and high-res pulses functioning with the Delteq.

Tom Piper

 

Another vote for the DynoTech opti. Mine has been fine for three years now. They are exceptional well made. For an Opti they are a decent (although expensive) choice.

 

So what you guys are trying to say is that 3 opti's going out in less than a year isn't the effect of some other problem?? Going and buying a Dynatech is just covering up another problem I might have right?

 

Anyone think that all of these problems could be related to something else? Wouldn't something be CAUSING them to go out?

 

This is a long shot but here goes.

The vaccum harness has an unusal feature. There is a small blue valve about the diameter of a quarter in the vaccum hose. It is a vaccum limiting valve. It is supposed to close and prevent excessive vaccum from sucking the opti down flat or pulling moisture past the seals. If this has failed, then perhaps that is the problem.

The water pump could be part of the problem. A small detail that is over looked on the water pump is the factory requirement of two pellets of Bar's Leak that is supposed to be added any time the coolant is drained. The bar's leak is supposed to help keep the seals working in the water pump. GM has a part number for this, but the stuff looks identical to those brown Bars leak tablets about 3/4" x 1/2". Just add two in the radiator before you fill it the next time per the shop manual.

The opti vaccum harnees including the valve can be ordered from GM, easy to change.

Another problem with the opti is over reving the engine. The rotor can fail from that alone, what is your rev limter set at?

Good luck,

Z28