Help! I thought it would be faster than this.........96 SS
I would think that a stock A4 LT1 SS would run 13.80s or so....I've seen stock SS M6 cars run in the 13.4-13.6 range at 103-104 mph.
Tune it up and make sure there are no codes, and try again...in some good dry cool weather....
As for good starter mods, the 20tl catback on the car is pretty good...a set of headers and Y pipe would definitely wake it up...
Tune it up and make sure there are no codes, and try again...in some good dry cool weather....
As for good starter mods, the 20tl catback on the car is pretty good...a set of headers and Y pipe would definitely wake it up...
if your car was pinging 240* in the staging lanes that could explain a lot of it...LT1's are very susceptible to heat. Turn the car off in the staging lanes and onkly run it when you need to move. Hot lapping your car (running it over and over again without a cooldown) will cause your car to heat soak and it won't run very good times...thus the reason a lot of guys go to an electric water pump and manual fan switch 
Tune up wouldn't hurt either if it hasn't been done in a while.

Tune up wouldn't hurt either if it hasn't been done in a while.
Originally posted by sean1997ws6
hey man dont feel bad, I have a 1997 WS6 with headers , flowmaster 3 inch catback, hypertech,160therm. and I only get a 14.1-14.2 consistant with a best of 14.0and i and useually around 98-99 mph. yea you bet I am pretty p/oD
hey man dont feel bad, I have a 1997 WS6 with headers , flowmaster 3 inch catback, hypertech,160therm. and I only get a 14.1-14.2 consistant with a best of 14.0and i and useually around 98-99 mph. yea you bet I am pretty p/oD
Man , I dont know what the prob is w/your cars , if there even is one , but a 14.2 aint bad . Alhtough I ran my 6 speed with 3:23's and a slipping clutch w/a 2.3 60ft and i Still ran a 14.2 @100 mph . A 14.0 isnt bad although with headers I would think that a 13 wont be hard to hit with a few other minor bolt ons , for either car .
youll get there , good luck . If i was you and , I would have a Edit done to your cars computer at pcm for less . It is well worth it , and it would bring out the best of the upgrades you have " headers , catback " I would bet anything that firebird will hit 13's ........Happy motoring
Not too bad I guess but no too good either especially if you aint got no traction problems. My car was bone stock and ran a 14.1. The slowest was a 14.23. 500' elevation isnt much. I actually feel more sorry for Sean1997. I would be bummed to buddy. Hey sean did you get your car tuned?
as said above these cars hate heat.
do not let the car sit and idle in the lanes. the times arent that bad but arent great.
you need a scanner for these cars,being that they are obd2,and you can only clear codes with a scantool.
get to the basics,ignition tuneup,get a fuel pressure guage make sure the pressure is constant,make sure air filter is clean.
do not let the car sit and idle in the lanes. the times arent that bad but arent great.
you need a scanner for these cars,being that they are obd2,and you can only clear codes with a scantool.
get to the basics,ignition tuneup,get a fuel pressure guage make sure the pressure is constant,make sure air filter is clean.
Clearing Scan Codes
Hey Racin',
I thought you could clear codes by pulling the PCM IGN fuse out and leaving it out for a minute? It's always worked for me whenever I get the dreaded Low Backpressure Service Engine Soon light because of my cut-out in Overdrive?
- Matt
'96 WS6 A4
Minor mods: ~ 260rwhp
w/125 shot ~ 360rwhp
I thought you could clear codes by pulling the PCM IGN fuse out and leaving it out for a minute? It's always worked for me whenever I get the dreaded Low Backpressure Service Engine Soon light because of my cut-out in Overdrive?
- Matt
'96 WS6 A4
Minor mods: ~ 260rwhp
w/125 shot ~ 360rwhp
Get that A4 some help... Get a Vigilante 3200 stall. You will love it & despite what some people claim, it is completely streetable. I am very very picky when it comes to how it will drive on the street. Also send the PCM to someone to get modded.
1: P.I. Vig3200 Stall
2: PCM Program
3: Fan Switch
4: 160 therm
5: Headers & Exhaust
6: Sub Frames
7: Sticky tires
This alone should get you into the 13.0 range with out a problem. My car never gets over 180 degrees.......
1: P.I. Vig3200 Stall
2: PCM Program
3: Fan Switch
4: 160 therm
5: Headers & Exhaust
6: Sub Frames
7: Sticky tires
This alone should get you into the 13.0 range with out a problem. My car never gets over 180 degrees.......
Another simple thing to do is to ice the manifold between passes. Get a couple bags of ice and put them on the intake while you're waiting to make your next run. It's kind of a pain on SS cars with the air filter in the way, but it does help.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 884
From: I reached back like a pimp and smacked that LS1....
I don't think the LT1 is heat sensitive. At all.
My car whether it was naturally aspirated, or forced induction, has always ran within 1mph hot lapping it.
It never went faster after a long cool down.
Also, I run ALOT of LT1 cars on the dyno, and after they are hot you can make continual back to back runs and they will be within a few horsepower.
My car whether it was naturally aspirated, or forced induction, has always ran within 1mph hot lapping it.
It never went faster after a long cool down.
Also, I run ALOT of LT1 cars on the dyno, and after they are hot you can make continual back to back runs and they will be within a few horsepower.
Originally posted by INTMD8
I don't think the LT1 is heat sensitive. At all.
My car whether it was naturally aspirated, or forced induction, has always ran within 1mph hot lapping it.
It never went faster after a long cool down.
Also, I run ALOT of LT1 cars on the dyno, and after they are hot you can make continual back to back runs and they will be within a few horsepower.
I don't think the LT1 is heat sensitive. At all.
My car whether it was naturally aspirated, or forced induction, has always ran within 1mph hot lapping it.
It never went faster after a long cool down.
Also, I run ALOT of LT1 cars on the dyno, and after they are hot you can make continual back to back runs and they will be within a few horsepower.
Last edited by robb4964; Sep 14, 2003 at 07:16 PM.
Thank you everyone for your input!
I definately notice a difference when it gets hot, it feels sluggish.
So is the two on the left exhaust good or bad? ( it's what iI have now.)
So the cold air hood scoop doesnt work that well? I noticed some baffling in the hood scoop itself which I thought was kind of wierd.
Anything I can do to make it better, or would another CAI be a better idea?
my neon is Obd2 as well. All Neons from 96 on up thru the latest models have the self diagnostic feature. all you have to do is know the sequence to retrieve the codes. Thats why I aksed if my SS would have something like that, it's handy!
Can some one tell me some websites for some of the mods that people have suggested? (PCM reprogramming, exhaust, headers, and converters) I'd like to do some research
Thanks again everyone!
I definately notice a difference when it gets hot, it feels sluggish.
So is the two on the left exhaust good or bad? ( it's what iI have now.)
So the cold air hood scoop doesnt work that well? I noticed some baffling in the hood scoop itself which I thought was kind of wierd.
Anything I can do to make it better, or would another CAI be a better idea?
my neon is Obd2 as well. All Neons from 96 on up thru the latest models have the self diagnostic feature. all you have to do is know the sequence to retrieve the codes. Thats why I aksed if my SS would have something like that, it's handy!
Can some one tell me some websites for some of the mods that people have suggested? (PCM reprogramming, exhaust, headers, and converters) I'd like to do some research
Thanks again everyone!
When its hot it'll pull timing or not allow all of the total. Mine used to get 38-39 all the way thru a run if it wasn't too hot. If it was hot, I'd get 36-37 thru the run.
I know of two people that tried CAI on an SS the same day at the track. First runs with the stock setup then change to a Cold air. Both cars picked up .2 sec. The stock setup gets heat soaked and has too many bends, restricting air.
The SLP 2OTL is a great cat back. The only thing is you might have the "cone of silence". Its a piece of metal put in right before the muffler to quiet it down. I know 97 cars had this but don't remember if they started in 96. You'd know as soon as you dropped the muffler. This was the precursor to the quad tip SLP ie, quieter.
To pull codes, most use Autotap. OBDII won't let you read codes through the check engine light.
I know of two people that tried CAI on an SS the same day at the track. First runs with the stock setup then change to a Cold air. Both cars picked up .2 sec. The stock setup gets heat soaked and has too many bends, restricting air.
The SLP 2OTL is a great cat back. The only thing is you might have the "cone of silence". Its a piece of metal put in right before the muffler to quiet it down. I know 97 cars had this but don't remember if they started in 96. You'd know as soon as you dropped the muffler. This was the precursor to the quad tip SLP ie, quieter.
To pull codes, most use Autotap. OBDII won't let you read codes through the check engine light.


