if its like you said, about 60mph and 3000rpms, with the 25.5" tires 1:1 3rd and 3.73 ratio, 3000rpm = 61mph

 

According to the codes on my glovebox the code is GU5. Also my shifter column has a "1" on it. It appears that I can get the car out of the hole faster by manually shifting it but I read on some of the posts that states otherwise. If I just leave the shifter at "3" and mash the gas, the car will accelerate at a decent rate but not as hard as if I start from a manual one. It doesn't seem to make sense as the car should start off in first regardless but that is my experience. Do I have anything to worry about in manually shifting my auto? I noticed that when I do, the tires will break traction from first into second. BTW my car has over 158,000 on the odo. It seems slow in my opinion.

 

I race my 94 a4 the same way by holding a 1rpm rev then letting off break, smashing on gas in 1st, move to 2, then to D. (Not the circled D) and i want to know the same thing will that mess my transmission up?

 

Probably... one? They are tough enough to handle bolt ons thats for sure. Of course some people have bad luck and break when their car is stock.

 

I have a 95 formula with an auto, hypertech programming, K&N drop in filter and TF elbow (basically stock ). I never manually shift my car. It has 1st-2nd-3rd-D....I leave it in drive, push the transmission performance button and go It grabs serious rubber in the first 2 shifts (at 4500ft up)...and shifts at redline through every gear. It shifts wayyy better than I could I just make sure I hook up off the line and let the pc do the rest It can be more fun to shift yourself sometimes, but for tranny longevity and the best acceleration I'd let the tranny do its thing. Thats as long as its working right

 

a bolt on 04 mustang will beat a 94 intake and exhaust camaro

 

N2O.

/thread

 

drag radials.......

 

cam swap! will be cheaper in the long run and you will have that power ALL of the time...

 

Well, first of all, you have to know what the "bolt-ons" are and how much power the stang has. Then you have to know that your car is making ----what a stocker would make--one in good condition. Then you have to take into consideration the Manual v. the Auto, if the ford was an auto--- an auto generally will have an advantage over a manual out of the hole (less spin) and through the gears,unless the the manual shifter really has the experiece.

Since you really don't have time slips, and this was just a street race, you really don't know which car "should" have carried the day. JMHO

 

Drag radials won't give him the hp needed to stay in front or come around him on the big end. I'm sure he wants to get out and front and stay there.

 

well, what good is nitrous on street tires....spray it your going to spin.....

 

cam

 

You sig says you have a 94 with no 02 sensors, and 94's only came with front o2 sensors. That could be a problem, seeing as how the pcm determines the air/fuel from the readings from toe 02's. So my advice is buy some 02's...

 

The o2s will not effect WOT performance at all.
The O2s only effect air fuel ratio in closed loop. At WOT, the car is in open loop.

Not having o2s will effect drivability and gas milage, but not all out performance.