LOL you know I was actually surprised because I did not drop anything the whole install and not find it later. I dropped about 6 locks and found them all, I drop like 3 retainers and found them all. I dropped a ****load of sockets down the front infront of the windsheild bottle and found them all. I dropped 3 loctite caps and found them all. The only thing I could not find was the tip of my magnetic stick which stuck to something and stayed there. But it's a magnet and it's nowhere near the engine so it's all gravy.

I really hope you are right about the rockers...

 

If your motor is starting to crank then stopping you may want to verify your spark plug firing order. The reason why when you let it sit for a second the car will begin to crank again is do to the preasure in the misfired cylinders, it's just like turning it by hand you'll always have to wait a few seconds so you can turn it again. If your firing order is wrong when it fires on that cylinder that should be going up it stops the engine instantly. If your rockers where to tight and the engine stopped cranking it wouldn't crank past that point without smacking a valve. On the rockers just tighten each one about two or three turns and adjust them by ear. If there all clacking then just do it a little at a time till they stop clacking and then do each rocker individually. Your car will still run even if the rockers are only hand tight you just won't hear the lobe of your cam. I've done the top dead center method and it's probbably the most accurate way to do it, but it's a pain in the azz. If you do want to do it that way the cylinder and intake/exhaust rocker tightning sequence is in the haynes manual. good luck.

 

I don't care if they are clacking.... that was the whole point when I installed them. I wanted to adjust while the car was running but the damn thing would not turn on.

I will recheck the plug wire order on the opti but I'm pretty sure they are correct. I put little labels on each wire before I took them off the opti.

 

Check the routing and connections of the plug wires. Then recheck it. After that do it all over again.

The rockers may be too tight but it seems whenever someone has trouble starting their car after a cam install it's usually due to crossed plug wires or a bad connection to the opti or a spark plug. Also it's the easiest to check. Redoing the valve lash can't hurt either.

Brad

 

If you back off all of your rockers and your able to turn the motor by hand it's not your rockers. I'm really betting your plugs are in the wrong order because if it where anything else you would be hearing a metal to metal contact. I know you already know the opti order since there on the side's of the opti. In case you don't know here is the engine order.

drivers side from front to back: 1,3,5,7
passenger side(same deal) : 2,4,6,8 Hope this helps out some Good luck!

 

The plug wires are correct as I thought... I knew it would be a problem so I marked each of them in order (1234) from top to down on the opti. I have been trying to crank it and it does not want to fire. All the rockers are loose to the point that you can wiggle them up down a good ways. The car has no SES, no sensors are wrong, it builds oil pressure while I'm cranking it. WTF, what could be the problem???

On top of all this madness, my car is stuck on the street because I can't drive it back into my garage. I need to get the damn thing fixed TODAY.

Anybody please! Whoever gets the problem is going to get some sort of goodie or something! This thing needs to be on the road!

 

I feel your pain bro, so I'll try and help you out. First things first....is it getting fuel? Can you hear the fuel pump activate when you turn the key to the "on" position? Keep the door open and listen to the gas tank....

 

Have you checked for spark at the ends of the plug wires?

Take a plug wire off the plug and stick your finger over it (or for the weak put it agenst a grong like a bolt on the frame)and have some try to start the car and make sure you are getting spark at the wires

 

Dude,

GO FIX THE ROCKERS@!!!!!!


I had a friend who brought his truck down to my house, we did a cam install on it. SAME THING YOU ARE DESCRIBING. We loosened them up, fired her up and adj. them with the truck running.

NOW, my address is

John B Preece
114 Grace St.
Delbarton, W.V. 25670


I would like a case of B&M Trick shift for my th350



J/K man,

Seriously, that is your problem though

 

I'm pretty sure I'm getting spark because I heard the engine try to fire a couple times... The coil is basically brand new and was working before this install. So was the ICM etc. I even replaced my 10k plugs with brand new ones just to be safe.

How loose should I make the rockers? Like how many turns on before it should start?

 

Now it is time to adjust your rockers. You will need to be able to turn the crank (in the clockwise direction) to do these adjustments. Turn the crankshaft until the cast arrow on the crankshaft hub is in the 12 o’ clock position and number 1 cylinder is at TDC. Watch number 1 cylinder valves as the crankshaft hub arrow approaches 12 o’ clock position. If a rocker moves as the arrow moves to position, the engine is in the number 6 firing position. The crankshaft must then be turned one more time to reach cylinder number 1 firing position.

At this position, exhaust rockers 1, 3, 4, and 8 can be adjusted as can intake rockers 1, 2, 5, and 7. While spinning the pushrod with your fingertips, tighten the rocker down until you feel resistance in the pushrod - this is zero lash. Tighten the adjusting nut on the rocker arm an additional 1/2 - 1 turn (or whatever you think is right).

Turn the crank 360 degrees (clockwise) until the crankshaft hub is at 12 o’ clock again. Adjust exhaust rocker 2, 5, 6, and 7 and intake rockers 3, 4, 6, and 8 as you did in the step above.
Using the original gasket, or a new one, install the valve covers. Torque the bolts down to 100 lb. in. (Note : There may be interference from the rocker arms - the covers can be slightly modified (cut) to make the rockers fit)

 

I already clearanced the valve covers... That sounds like a good method to use to adjust the rockers, however, how the hell am I going to turn the crank? I can't take all the plugs out again because the blower is already bolted up and the driver side is impossible with the blower in place. Also, when I put the hub on, it was not at #1 TDC so I can't use the mark on the hub. Could I do it visually by looking at the pushrods?

 

UPDATE: I just checked right now, one of my rockers seemed to be not centered on the valve. I pulled pushrod and it was noticeably bent... So I guess my rockers were too tight. Is there anything else I should check? I'm going to pull all of them later today to make sure that this is the only one bent but just from close visual inspection that was the only one.

 

If your afraid of messing up the hub bolt (sounds like you already did) you could always turn the crank by using the 3 hub bolts. I would use 2 wrenches for 2 of the 3 separate bolts so you don't put all that pressure on one bolt.

No need to pull the plugs but you kinda have to be able to turn the crank during a valve lash session. I'm not sure setting valve lash is going to fix your problem though...they would have to have been pretty friggin tight for the car not to start. With the car in neutral the crank should turn fairly easily.

 

i would say its your rockers or you got the opti one hole off. I installed my opti while the motor was on a engine stand and still got it one hole off. The car would not start at all it would just crank and crank and almost hit. I did everything, checked rockers, checked fuel pressure, checked spark it was the only thing left to check. As so as i got it put on right it fired right up.