Guys I need help disconecting this hose. On the easy side it has a Clamp but on the other side its to a metal tube about two inches long (book says its a valve flow control) and then again to another hose that runs to the fenderwall then all the way to the heater core.

The 45degree elbow hose I am talking about appears to have a metal sleeve attached to the "hose/metal conection". This sleeve seems to be crimped on the hose itself. It does not have a clamp on it. Many of the hose to metal conections are done the same way on my 95LT1.

How do I disconect it? the chiltons book has it pictured on page
1-40 fig. 85. The hose next to the radiator. In the picture you see another hose to the AC pump that has a similar conection too.

I heard some guys have already replace that watterpump hose but how did you do it??

I need help. I dont want to drive the car cause its nice and cool right now. Do I need to twiste the hell out of it? Pull like a maniac? Chainsaw Massacre and a new clamp??


Can anyone help ??


Marvin

 

If it helps any go to

http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses.jpg


Its hose # 12 that conects to the flow control valve # 13 in the diagram.

The dealer didnt have the elbow on stock so I purchased it from the AutoParts store.

Since they sell them independtly I am sure there is a way to do this Job without buying the complete hose.


Anyone have any ideas? I did a seart and someone suggested cutting the metal sleeve and adding a clamp. so I know its doable that way but anyother way (easier perhaps?)


Marvin

 

You CANNOT disconnect the hose from the flow valve the hose is crimped onto the metal part and the metal and plastic are 'fused' together. The easy way to do it is to buy a 90 degree heater hose elbow cut the valve off and replace it with the elbow.

You can get the 90 degree elbow and 2 hose clamps at your local auto parts store for about $6. I just had to do this 4 days ago because the plastic housing seperated and stranded my *** on the highway. A straight coupling will work also but you will have to get a longer length of hose on the water pump end so you don't cause the hose to bend to where it will restrict the flow.

BTW the hose inside diameter is 3/4 inch so the coupling will have to be 3/4 inch. I recommend everyone get rid of this valve which serves no damn purpose because when it goes it goes without warning and it will leave you stranded.

 

I already have the 45 degree elbow. I thought about adding an insert but I didnt know this valve is made out of plastic. It sure looks like metal to me.

I dont know about getting rid of this valve though. GM would not spend money if it wasnt needed. Does it restrict any back flow perhaps? Maybe this is a good time to buy a new valve and replace it at the same time.

I am curious that the GM dealer and the Autoparts store sell the Elbow part by itself. Kind of implies there is a way to replace it else they would only sell the complete hose including the metal parts that go on the fenderwell. ($$$$$)

I am sorry the valve went out on you. I am considering replacing the valve and I already have the Elbow. It sure sucks to pay so much for Z28parts when you check on the Edmunds.com website for the actual value of the pre-96 Z28s is just down ridiculous how cheap they are now.

If I make my engine explode I may just buy a used z28 swap the engine and then sell the parts of it on e-bay and I am positive I end up making a profit on top.


thanks for the info about the valve. I may go your way too but I will check what the valve use is for and before I delete it.

Marvin

 

You are rather fortunate that its one of the easier swaged fittings to get to..
Take a Dremel and cut a slit in the aluminum band that you see there[that's the 'clamp'] and then a screwdriver to split the clamp off...
Be careful not to cut into the plastic of the valve..
Then pull the old hose off and replace hose in the usual manner with a band clamp.. [there's even a lip on the fitting to hold the hose on like on most hose fittings]
[be glad it wasn't one farther back by the heater core they are a bitch to get to[I know I did all my hoses that way... on the car..]
I may have a few pics of how to cut it if this isn't enough info..

 

I know what you are saying, I was stranded by the same leak. I spliced mine 3 times (one by the pump, and twice near the core inlet) before I finally broke down and replaced the assy. About $100 from the usual sources. Try explaining a $100 heater hose to friends and family

Just like everything else, it is a major pain to replace too. Had to remove the dipstick tube to get mine in with stock manifolds. Maybe headers would be easier.

LAter
Sean

 

Just to clarify, since the opinions seem to be that they cannot be removed, those clamps DO come off[and yes off of the plastic flow control valve also]
Use the method in my above post...
GM sells the entire heater hpose assembly [with the 'pipes'] and also sells the hoses seperately..
ALSO the Goodyear Hi Miler kit has all the hoses[one is missing from the goodyear kit tho.. but its a good kit..] for 95-7 configuration only[not for 93-4, but you can 'upgrade' it to 95-7...]

 

Mtrhds94Z Thanks for the Info. I will get me a dremmel and slit the freagin clamp just like you said.

I ma gunna ask for the price of that valve though. I dont want to do the job twice...

Marvin