I am in the process of building an lt-1 383 stroker, and i have some questions. I want it to be at least 450HP, I wont be racing it, just need a mean street motor, with a real lopy cam. I will invest in good heads AFR,s if need be. I have a good LT-1 shortblock right now.I have seen some new 383 kits on Ebay for about $800.00, any comments on them?

Whats the cheapest way to go NA?
Do i really need to go 383, or can i do it with a 355?
What kind of suprises am i in for?

 

1 word of advice... DON'T skimp on internal engine parts!

A cammed 355 is pretty streetable but I don't know how well a 383 will run on the street. Are you going for 450 RWHP?

 

to me a 383 is more street friendly. broader torque curve makes it more driveable.

As for internals - I would recommend a fully forged internally balanced kit. If you are going to go through all the trouble of building it, no reason to skimp as stated above. then if you feel like spraying it or whatever down the line, you will already have a stout bottom end, not to mention peace of mind.

 

If your goal is only 450 flywheel hp then you can easily do that w/ a stock bottom end or 355 and have it last w/ good street mannors. If you still want to poke and stroke then a cast rotating assy will be fine for that figure (as long as it's flywheel) and you don't plan on doing anything crazy to up the power. If that is a rearwheel figure for the street then it's best to go w/ a stroker and forged bottom end.

 

Yea i was thinking rear wheel horsepower of 450, thats why i was saying 383 with AFR Heads. I dont want to spray it. Just want that real mean lopy cam sound. What type of setup will get me there, LE-3? I also am going to need a good motor shop, i dont want someone rigging my motor. Any suggestions? I live in New Jersey!

 

If your wanting to make 450rwhp you might want to call lloyed or advanced induction for a head and custom cam set up. I dont think stock ported heads are going to quite get you there

 

i agree. I haven't set my setup on the dyno yet, but I would say that I am VERY close to 450rwhp, this the goal I discussed with lloyd when I did my build. actually between 460-470rwhp. You need to realize that to do this N/A you need to have rather deep pockets, trust me on that. You are looking at around $12K just in the engine, not to mention driveline. Mine is up and running, and I'll tell you what, it is no joke that is for sure. But it was not an easy or fast process. If you need some help or direction just ask.
I am sure some other people on this board will have some other methods as well.

 

Thanks for the input guys, if 450RWHP is 12k i am not interested. What number do you think i need to be in the low 12, high 11 for a M-6 Transam?

 

I did a best of 12.0 @ 115 w/ a whole gaggle of 12.1's @ 114 averaging 1.75 60' times w/ the old setup in my sig w/ a 3750lb race weight.

 

realize that there are other ways to get 450rwhp, and other people on this board may be able to tell you how to build something similar performance wise to my setup for less, i am not sure. but you can definately build something capable or running high 11's low 12's for less (engine wise), and nitrous is always an option for when you are at the track.

 

Yea if i can run low 12,s NA, and it has that mean cam sound ,i would be real happy. Maybe i dont go 383, i go 355 with stock crank, new rods,pistons, and LE3. Does anybody think thats possible?

 

Where in NJ do you live?

 

yea i have a le2 heads and an 847 cam and made 417rwhp with all the bolt ons i did mine for around $4000

 

I live in Jackson,Sleepermullet, What cam is the 847, is that the Hotcam calfirebird?

I think i would like to go with a setup like this
Check block, crank and rods for tolerances
Block dipped and cleaned
Magnafluxed to check for cracks
Balance rotating assembly
Bore 30 over to 355,
Align honed for cam and crank
Install new cam bearings, freeze plugs, block plugs
Install stock crank and rods with 30 over pistons
Install new high volume oil pump, radical cam, timing chain, lifters
Install new heads, (probably AFR, maybe Trickflow, or LE), pushrods, roller rockers,
Check piston to valve clearance
Install intake, valve covers, oil pan


This should put me at a complete long ready to install in my car, than I will install it and get a tune
Does anybody else have a cam and head package suggestion?

 

847 is a gm cam something like 236-242 575 595 lift.

Le packages rock.