after searching all week for a longer bolt to install my hub back on, i settled for the only thing i could find. Sales guy gave me a long threaded rod (grade 5?) that i cut up to make a "tool" to install the crank pully. Anyways about half way on the bolt decided it didn't want to stay in and broke off inside the hub . Now im lost as what to do to fix my problem. Please give me some ideas.

 

Drill and use an extractor. You might try using a left-hand twist drill bit. It might make the rod spin out. I never recommend anyone using a threaded rod that is not at least grade 8.

 

Why I use 4 different length grade 8 bolts with washers. Coat the washers, hub and crank with oil/assembly lube and goes on in like 5 mins. Good luck your only choices are as shoe said.

 

While lucky people get away with it, I never recommend using a bolt(s) to draw the hub on, either. If the friction does not destroy the bolt, the crank threads will be next. There is no friction on the threads in the crank when you use a threaded rod-it's all where you are turning the nut. Even if that part strips, you have not harmed your crank threads and you can easily twist the rod out. No harm is done to the important parts.

 

If you are uncomfortable drilling a hole and using an EZ out you could always weld a smaller bolt to the broken off piece then back it out

 

if it was a hardened rod, it might turn out quite easily.

 

yeah, try to tap it with a small chisel in a counter clockwise direction, you would be surprised at how many times this has worked for me

and in the future just tap in on with a rubber mallet so you can engage a few good turns and just pull it in slow with the crank bolt, i do it all the time with all different types of cars and never have an issue., you just need to make sure you a decent amount of thread engagement.

 

i had the rod threaded all the way in and was using a nut and washers to push hub on the crank. i felt it starting to slip so i decided to give up on the rod and take it out. it came about an inch out before it broke. i think im going to try to weld a nut to the end of the rod if i can. it looks like i have about an inch or rod sticking out but cant really tell with the hub still on. i dont want to try and pull hub back off and cause more damage to whats left of the rod. should i just try to back the rod straight out or "rock" it out by turning it in and out?

 

I just had the stock crank bolt snap off as I tightened it a couple days ago. I got lucky that when I stuck the broken piece back in to pull the hub back off it spun the broken part out.

 

The threads of the rod have stretched and are galling against threads in the crank. From my own experiences your best hope is to apply a lubricant into the threaded space and try very small increments of clockwise to anti clockwise movements - clockwise first. Hopefully you will compress the rod threads close to their original shape. This is just my opinion. I have not had this particular problem.

 

Where did you find a 7/16 - 20 rod? I am having a heck of a time finding one. And I already tryed the bolt method. Started damaging crank threads. So I didnt get lucky this time around.

 

at a local store called fastnal. i couldnt find anything else anywhere. if you find one make sure its a grade 8 or you will be in the same situation im in

 

i have 2 engines one with a heads and cam build i did and one which was a stock build the H&C motor spins up to 6500 rpms and they both have the crank threads were the bolt screws into stripped not one problem with running with out it till this day and more then 40k miles on both builds.

unless you are going to be running a blower or cent. s/c off the front of that hub i wouldnt see why you couldnt just put it behind you and continue with your build or mods.

hope this helps ease some of that stress, bad thing is if you didnt get it all the way on you will need to bang it in with a heavy headed mallet and short handle and hit it in evenly and try not to bang up your condensor or radiator.

 

It's surprising that Fastenal couldn't do better than that. That is where I got my long metric 8.8 bolt and washers to draw the crank pulley down for my LS1. I'm concerned because I'm about to replace the cam in my LT1 and now wonder if I can come up with the right tools.

 

I guess you can count yourself as lucky, then. Though people do it, I would never recommend hammering it on.