Ok here is the scenario. The car had headers installed. Ran open header for about 5 days w/o o2 sensors. Had an off road X-Pipe custom fabbed for the car. Ran great. Put o2 sensors in it, the wires melted to the headers and the car ran like total ***. Took em out, replaced em with better heat shielding and the car continued to run like ***. It will idle just fine, but in gear the car will drop to unreasonably low RPMs, stumble, feel like 1/2 the engine was gone. I pulled the intake manifold off, found a good bit of unburn fuel puddled up in there. I replaced my intake manifold with a nice pretty black one, that was as clean as new, cranked the car up and gave it a quick drive and it ran excellent, just leaked oil out of the Intake Manifold. (I had been up for almost 20 hours at this point, 4am ) So i let the car sit for an hour, took off the manifold again, resealed it and put it back on, i had to leave for work in 2 hours so i let the car sit in the garage, time for work came and i got in cranked it up, it seemed to drive fine, but after about 3 miles the crappyness continued. the car smoked from leaked oil, stumbled, stalled...i managed to get it home, but i am stumped as to the culprit. Opti is only 6 months old, Coil is 6 months old, plugs are brand new, not even 2 weeks old, wires are new as well?

 

First off, disconnect your battery for 1/2 hr to reset the pcm.

Are you sure the O2s are fine now? MAF securely plugged in?

 

MAF is plugged in good, I tried resetting the PCM, didnt help much

 

Is the MAF facing the right way? I once put mine on backwards and the car ran like ****. Could also be a bad map sensor could be o2's could be bad opti, bad ignition coil, bad spark plugs, bad wires? Check all the easy things first, might be a bad TPS to. If you have acess to a laptop and TTS datamaster I suugest you scan your car and see what codes it's throwing and just see what the computer is doing. Hopefully someone here might be close enough or nice enough to swing by with their laptop.

Good luck.

 

I don't know where exactly in Ga. you are, but I'm in Auburn and have a laptop....although it is a little busted right now

 

Grip has the right idea. Dont trace a ghost. Stick to what you know was the problem.

The O2s could have been damaged when the wires grounded on the exhaust. Try tracing your new wires and seeing if they maybe burnt again. Replace the O2s and see if that may be the culprit. Dont even worry about the maf being backwards or the TPS... those have no direct connection to the O2 sensors. The puddled fuel will tell you that your A/F ratio was way off and you were running VERY rich. Definately an O2 problem following the description of the wires and how it ran afterwards. I would check every inch of the O2 system.

 

hhmmmm.....would the car run w/o the o2's again in theory like it did b4 i had them in there, just excessively rich? therefore the worst gas mileage ever? i could actually live with that for now, or at least untill i get paid....kinda low on funds right now. I dont have the $$ for the guess and check sys this time ya know...what kind of readings should i be looking for as a red flag if i hook up a scanner to it? o2 readings, MAP reading etc...anywhere that has a chart of the norms?

 

Your car blew the engine sensors fuse when the O2 melted to the header. I think its either a 20 or 25amp fuse and its located under the hood in that fuse box. Mine did the same thing to me a few months back. Just replace the blown fuse and you'll be alright.

I was kicking myself from all the trouble over a 10c fuse.

 

well i think i checked all my fuses but perhaps i missed one....wouldnt hurt to look anyway....problems started when the o2's melted to the headers, so yeah it would make sense i guess........

 

Check new post below.

 

if i recall that fuse is an injector fuse i dont know about an ENGINE SENSOR fuse under there....anyone have a haynes manual handy? My car is a 95 ODB I might be diff?

 

When you open the fuse box doesnt it still have the labeling for the fuses in the top part that covers the fuses?

 

Nevermind check the Fan/ACTR fuse, its a 10amp fuse in about the same location, thats the one that controls the OBDI sensors.

6. FANS/ACTR: Coolant Fan Relays; EVAP Canister
Purge So1enoid;Exhaust Gas Recirculation; Reverse
Lockout So1enoid;Skip Shift Solenoid; Heated
Oxygen Sensors (V8 Engine)


Hopefully that fuse is the blown one.

 

lol, i know where that fuse block is...im sayin inside it, the second fuse on the left is an INJECTOR FUSE to my recall...but i will double check when i get home....

if u could IM me on AIM : LRM95TransAm

preciate it

 

Just pull all of the fuses and look for a blown one