I changed out the map (I bought new harness too but didn't need to install it) and the car idled perfectly and ran great! I'm still getting the 9 deg. of knock retard but that could be due to the open headers rattling everything. My iac counts were in the low 100's once car was warmed up and the car sounded and ran great. Exhaust goes on tomorrow. Thanks a million everyone who helped. Hopefully it will continue to run awesome like this. Gotta take it for a spin tomorrow once exhaust is on. Then I gotta throw the stall in and really do some burnouts :-). Again, thanks all. I'll keep ya poster. May 8th is dynotune day :-).

 

That's GREAT News.. Congrats, work on getting that knock retard out! It will cost you mucho HP. I had 9 Degress at all times cuz AutoZone gave my a sensor for OBD 2 cars, diffrent resistance, so my ecm did not recognize it. Threw code 43. I did the bypass, then WOW, my car is suddenly wanting to hunt down some pony's. Went to the Dealer and installed a Factory knock sensor, and everythin's been great.

Congrats.....!! Post times soon.

 

I will get the exhaust on and I'll see if that helps w/ knock retard. I do have the LT4 KM in there and Bryan did that so I'm sure that is right. It's prolly something rattling. That shouldn't be too hard to find at least. Thanks a million for the help though man!

 

If your IAC counts are that high, there is a lot of fuel going in there at idle. Guess your new tune will take care of things.

 

Well at least I know it's the tune that needs the work now which will get taken care of I'm sure. Is high iac counts normal after a heads/cam swap? I'm new with all this computer stuff so bear w/ me. Actually, this is the first car I've ever worked on. I'm only 18 so I'm still learning day by day.

 

look at it this way. a stock car will have IAC counts at 30-40 so yeah those are pretty high.

 

But what can he do about that? Doesn't his new cam just require a little more air than the stock one (and therefore more fuel to match)? What could be changed so that he's using less air and fuel? (besides the Idle RPM)

 

Yeah I'm not sure about that either, but I'm sure APE will tune the car to the best of their abilities and everything will be fine. I'm relieved that nothing is mechanically wrong w/ the car. At least I know I did my part right, and now it's the car's turn to step up ;-). Hopefully I'm getting the true duals put on today then maybe I'll be able to get rid of a lot of that knock. If not, I'll have more homework to do :-). Thanks for the all the help everybody.

 

Good News.... Keep us posted after the dyno tune. I am very curious since I am installing the same cam as we speak.

 

What TB are you using? What size cam?

My 58mm BBK wouldn't even idle on my heads/cam car until I "fixed it." If your using a stock TB still, then a LITTLE bit larger drill bit than your IAC bleed hole should be used, I think I used a 13/64" but am not positive. This brought my own IAC down from 160 (maxed out) down to around 50ish, however I also had to use a 1/2" copper pipe to "fix" my TB situation, stocker wont need that.

 

What TB are you using? What size cam?

My 58mm BBK wouldn't even idle on my heads/cam car until I "fixed it." If your using a stock TB still, then a LITTLE bit larger drill bit than your IAC bleed hole should be used, I think I used a 13/64" but am not positive. This brought my own IAC down from 160 (maxed out) down to around 50ish, however I also had to use a 1/2" copper pipe to "fix" my TB situation, stocker wont need that.

I am running the xe230/236 cam with stock tb. Where exactly is the iac bleed screw so I don't go drilling out the wrong thing :-). Thanks a bunch for your help everybody. Can't wait to get this thing on the dyno and track.