I just installed every single mod in the sig and about 20 more little things, and I went to start the motor, here's what happened. The engine started to turn over, It just wouldn't fire at all. Everything else worked ok. My brand new scanmaster came on fine, and all the other electrical crap I hooked up works. I don't yet know how to retrieve trouble codes from the scanmaster, but I have an SES light and my check gauges light is now on. I also did an ODB I conversion with madwolfs tune, and the car has never been started with a 95 ECU powering it. PLEASE HELP!! HAVEN'T DRIVEN HER IN 9 MONTHS!! could my rockers be too tight?? I have the comp cams 1.6 non self aligning pro mags. I was pretty confident that I found zero lash very well by hand. Also, I just installed MSD 8.5mm OTVC kit. Also, brand new opti from dal, along with brand new 02 sensors from dal.

 

check for fuel and check for spark. on the spark just remember that even if you have it, that doesnt mean that the opti was installed correctly. This is what happened on a friends car who installed a brand new motor. after all taht work it wouldnt fire even with spark and fuel so we tore out the opti and reinstalled it making absolutely sure it was down flush against the timing cover and it fired up.

 

You didn't specify which lifters that you had except for that you had an all comp cams valvetrain. If you have the comp R's than you may very well have overtightened your rocker arm adjusting nuts. The comp r's like very little adjustment past 0 lash. With a quarter of a turn past you should be fine. May want to so a search and find out exactly what preload everyone is putting on them if those are the lifters that you have. Good luck though

 

thanks for the suggestions guys. I think it is my fuel pump. (Brand new walbro 255 pump along with ACCEL 30# injectors). I didn't prime the new pump, and I don't think it's getting any pressure at all. How do you prime the pump and do you need to after a new pump/injector install?

 

Turning the key to ON for at least a couple of seconds then turning it to OFF for about five seconds and repeating this several times, should be good enough to get the lines full of fuel. You can also prime it by jumpering 12v to the little connector that is by the bigger connectors on the RH shock tower. http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg The pump will run as long as you have it jumpered. If you think the problem is fuel related, use a pressure test gauge to know for sure.

Above also sent in response to email you sent me.

 

Check your fuel pressure.

I had the same problem as you on my buildup, ended up being my opti (was new). Had to overnight one and the engine started right up.

 

Ok, I have fuel pressure, but now I'm thinking it may be cause I did an OBD I conversion and removed A.I.R. and E.G.R. and the new ECU might not be liking that. I have a 97 Z with a 95 ECU. I don't know what to do. I'm pissed off. Like I said, I haven't driven it for 9 months. I drive a 1990 honda accord all the time I guess it could be my rocker adjustment. I have comp R lifters with the 1.6 NSA pro mags. I put 1/2 turn after zero lash for my pre-load.

 

run a compression test. if the valves are not adj. properly, it will show low pressure's. it should be in the area of 150-180. and w/in 5% on all cyl.s. if its lower then that, you have to redo the lash. did you soak the lifters in oil before you installed them? that will help from collapsing them and having the lash set wrong. dont forget to check for spark.

as for the obd1 issue, thats def. not it. the only poss. I can see there is if the pcm is bad. when he tuned it, you told him it was for a obd1 conversion right? he is supposed to change the values for the knock sensor to work w/your obd II knock sensor. you can delete the AIR and EGR and not even program for it and it'll run fine, but the check eng. light would just come on. it is normal for the check gauges light to come on w/the key on and the eng. not running due to the batt. power being under 12.8v (due to the alt. not turning, obviously).

 

That's too tight. 1/4 turn after you fine zero lash with Comp R's.

 

yeah, I told him about the conversion, and I have a 95 knock sensor.

 

*sigh*
well, I guess I will have to loosen the rocker arm nuts by 1/4 turn, cause there's no way in hades I'm going to back all of them off and re-adjust them!

 

I would start completely over again. Back them all off, find zero lash and add your preload.

Anyways, I'm pretty sure you'll have to start over again, you just can't back them off a 1/4 turn.

 

I wouldn't say ½ is too tight, but you still might have gotten them too tight somehow. Either check compression or back them off a little.
It would also be nice to know what your trouble code is about. Sorry, I can't help you with the Scanmaster. Aren't there some online instructions somewhere?

 

I found out I don't have a code. It's been so long since I drove my car I forgot the SES light and check gauges light comes on until the car is running!

Now, I'm sure shoebox is correct here, but Ibanez said you can't just back off the rocker nuts. He said in the above post you must redo all of the adjusting. I would hope shoebox was right and I can just back them off 1/4 turn.

 

I've been sworn to and sworn to that a 1/4 is where it's at with the Comp R's. True, it would probably still run with 1/2 turn preload though.