I'll try and make this as easy to read as I can.

As my sig mentions I have a 383LT1 which I just removed my engine from the car and redid my heads cause the springs were all crap (Wants to kick my mechanic in the nutts). I replaced the springs and stuff, had the Felpro 1074 gaskets and torqued the heads down to 65 ft\lbs in a circular pattern starting from the center. After everything was put back together, took it for a teat drive and got some funky codes that I cleared. But this morning when I went to go drive it again, I smelled antifreeze and saw it leaking from the back of my engine onto the floor bad when I looked under it.

When I looked at the back by the crossover tube they didn't appear to be leaking but I saw a solid stream of water shooting out about an inch below the crossover fitting on the left head. I took the valve cover off and rechecked the torque and it was a lil off. I started it back up and no stream of water but now a small trickle. Im guessing my head gasket is bad or could anything else be causing this? There is no water in the oil at all. I've never seen water stream out from the base of the head like that before. Im gonna try some Bars Leak and see if that seals it.

On a side note I am currently in the army stationed over in Germany and I head back to the states in 3 weeks so if this car isn't fixed by then, I have to sell it or junk it. I don't have the time to take the engine back out cause I am getting ready to start clearing here so any help would very much be appreciated.

 

You torqued in a cicular pattern? This is the correct sequence. from the middle out...

 

Ughhh, what I torqed it to wasn't that exactly. I went from 1-3 and then went around. I know they have to be torqued properly but why wouldn't my other head be leaking as well? It's leaking right in between or at where the block meets the head on 14 and 15. If I was to retorque this head what would be the best way? Just back the bolts out and then retorque them or would I have to take the rockers off as well? I want to check that gasket but that would require me to remove the intake also. Jus one more question, do the gaskets have a left and right side cause I didn't see a difference in em.

 

The gaskets have an UP and DOWN side, the UP is printed on the gasket. Did you use thread sealant on all the bolts? What bolts are you using? I used ARPs and torqued them to 75 ft. lb. Is the crossover pipe still leaking? Did you use all 4 gaskets on it?

 

Ok I feel really stupid now cause I didn't use any sealer on the bolts. I've been so rushed with everything I have to do out here plus fix my car im forgetting things. I used my old head bolts cause I cant get any out here. Im pretty sure I placed the gaskets facing up. I saw the arrow atleast so figured that was up, I hope. I know this all boils down to being my fault for not having the proper tools and stuff here. I could have avoided all this by just getting that damn on the car spring compressor. Would have saved me so much money now.

 

No sensee kicking yourself, so I will do it for you lol j/k. It is a bad idea to reuse stock head bolts, they are good for one time. Now on the other hand ARP bolts can be reused.What I think has happened here could be several things, none of them good.
Either the head is warped, the gasket is wrongly installed or the bolts are shot. In any direction you need a new gasket, and head bolts.

 

The head bolts penetrate the water jacket, so if there is no sealer on them, you'll most likely get a leak. As gator said, you should remove the head, and install a new gasket with a pliable, non-hardening sealer on the bolt threads. Realize you're short on time, if you banzai this it would prolly only take a couple of afternoons. At least it's the drivers side head, you won't have to deal with the accessories R+R. Good luck, hope you can get it done before you leave. Or, as a last-ditch emergency option, you could:
Drain coolant
remove head bolts in sequence, one at a time, coat threads with sealer, re-install semi-tight,
re-torque in sequence once all are back in,
refill with coolant and cross fingers
Maybe try that stop-leak. I don't like that stuff, but if it gets the car back here so you can properly fix it, it would be worth it

 

Important step you missed, there.

 

You also need to have the head surface checked as corrosion and brinelling at the back is very common. You really should surface any aluminum head any time it is removed unless it's a race motor with frequent tear-downs and copper wire to avoid brinelling the fire ring area.