Hows it going ppl, well i got some of my answers about the header choices, but now im wondering, some of you say if i go with mids, or shorty's i could use my stock y-pipe, but of course those have the huge canister cats on it, if i go with an aftermarket y-pipe i will not be running cats any longer correct? Unless i chose random techs y setup and spend out the yin yang. Help me out gang!

 

Which header style did you decide on? That will help in determining an appropriate y-pipe. There are several different aftermarket y-pipes, some with cats. and some without, but once again, it all depends on what style of header you are going to use. Even if you go the long tube route, running cats. is not an impossible task as I was able to pull it off.

 

You could get some 93-95 style single cat style headers, these come with a Y-pipe. That way if you want to use a catalytic converter, you only have to buy one and place it where the Y-pipe comes together, then hook to the rest of your exhaust on the other side. Thunder Racing actually sells a pipe used to do this, go to www.thunderracing.com and search for part # 99-S.

What are you trying to do here? keep the cats or ditch them??

 

Well what im trying to do is keep the cats, just because there is rumor that emission laws are going to take place here again soon and thats all i need is to get some massive fine for that esp. since my wife and i just had a baby, but if i can get away with it and the laws dont take effect then i will go with no cats, but what would i do about the AIR system?, kinda feel crazy asking these questions esp since ive owned this car since it was new and im a 32 year old man that obviously dont know as much as i thought i did on this car, LOL! Exhaust choices are crazy on these cars, so many choices. I have decided on either hooker or pacesetter

 

I'm not sure how the proposed emmissions testing (if it goes through) would work there, but I'll tell you how it works here.

1) cars from the cut off (15-20 years old) up to 1995 with OBDI must pass the "sniffer" test. The sniffer test is performed by a wand that is inserted into the tailpipe of the car while it is running which tests the emmissions output. There is also a visual inspection using a mirror under the car for a cat.

2) 1996 and newer OBDII cars do not have to pass a sniffer test. The testing method for them is a computer scan of the cars PCM for any sort of trouble code or Check Engine light. If neither one of these is found, the car will pass. If a trouble code is found, it will fail. There is no actual reading of emmissions output. This creates a sort of loophole that you can have your tuned by one of the tuners on this board so that it will not throw a code if you don't have cats, or EGR, or AIR, and therefore no code=you passing.

 

I've been very happy with my LPE shorties and Random Tech Y-pipe. I have one Y with the converter and one which has a gutted cat. It passed MDs strict emissions standards since 1995. I'm going LTs this year since I'm in a part of PA with no emissions, but the LPE set up works great and evidently flows good, too..Times in my sig...

--Alan

 

I would think it would be the same as well here since we are so close to each other but you never know, im just in around greenville sc, lets say i bought the hooker long tubes, correct me if im wrong , but i think all i would need is the headers, gaskets which i would try to find the copper Mr.Gasket ones for a better seal,the header collectors, fastners w/locks y-pipe.Now if the places for the O2's are in place in the headers i shouldnt throw a engine code correct, just because i have no cats any longer.?

 

Can we assume from your screen name that you have a 1997? That makes a big difference in the answers to your questions. Its always a good idea to include a "signature" with info like the year/model of your car, tranny type and any major mods.

If its a 97, and you use long tubes, you have several potential issues. It will not pass a strict "visual" because even it you include dual cats, they will have been relocated from the stock positions. Not a problem if they don't check, or don't care.

If you have a 97, you have 4 O2 sensors. You need to have the bungs added to the Hookers for the 2 pre-cat sensors. If you are not running cats, you either need to plug O2 "sims" into the connectors for the 2 after-cat sensors, or you need to have the rear sensors "tuned out" of the PCM. The problem with "tuning out" the sensors is that is will result on a "system not ready" indication when they hook up the emissions check to the ALDL connector. You may be allowed one or two "not readies" depending on your local emissions rules.

Same with the EGR and AIR systems. Hooker LT's do not come with connections for these systems. You could have them added, or you could delete the systems. Delete then, and you have the same issues with PCM codes. There is a "sim" circuit you can install to make it appear to the PCM that the EGR system is still there. The AIR system is a bit of a problem, since "tuning it out" is the only way to get rid of the codes. (Some people get lucky and the missing AIR system doesn't trip the codes, but that is an unusual occurence). Now you have the potential for a "not ready" for those systems.

If you don't have a 96 or a 97, ignore everything I posted above.

 

If you get the Hooker long tubes, my advice would be to buy them without an emmissions fittings except for oxygen sensors. Stock you have a total of 4 oxygen sensors, 2 before the cat, 2 after the cat. Get the headers and Y-pipe. This came with all the hardware and gaskets I needed for install, but I ended up buying the Fel-Pro gasket specifically for LT1's because I liked how it was constructed and how the ports lined up a lot better than the gasket that Hooker included. After install, you will need to have the EGR, AIR and secondary (the 2 after the cat) oxygen sensors programmed out so it will not throw a code. The Hooker long tubes that I bought from summit came the way I described above, no emmissions fittings except oxygen sensors.

You will still need to have an exhaust shop do a little welding and fitting to get everything together as it should be (I much prefer welding to clamping exhaust), but that is really no big deal. Usually costs less than $100, and is kind of fun to drive your car with the exhaust disconnected for a short while

 

Sorry yes i do own a 1997 z-28 ss clone, its bone stock other than hypertech waste of time, expensive fan switch to me, but anyway, my name is kyle by the way , my car is auto, 2 :73 gear which is terrible until i hit around 50 and up, ok back to the header deal, sounds like im in for a ride and a half, i really dont want to tinker with the computer until i go with some future plans internally, so with this in mind, if you guys were in my place on a good strict money situation as im sure we all are, what route would you go? i want the headers with AIR connections and i guess i will stay with some cats for now, unless i can get both, headers with AIR, and run no cats , with no codes, and get the 2 after cat O2 connections made.

 

If all of the emissions will be turned off in the computer, there will be no need to use any type of simulators right?? But if you will add the cats you should connect the air pump to protect the cats. True?

 

You can have the emissions taken care of with a mail-order tune from pcm4less or madz28, plus you'll also gain more horsepower from the headers and the motor with the mail-order tune.

 

Ok guys ive figured it out , granted i'll have to dish out a little $$$$ on these it seems to be the best route to follow, ive chosen the MAC system part number TF-3597, system has it all, all 4 o2 holes 2 cats, y-pipe for 749.00, not too bad for what you get i guess and all the AIR hook-ups are there, now ive just got to get some banged up hands, make up some new words while installing and have a budweiser truck on stand-by.

 

Those are the MAC dual-cat headers. If you look at the photo, it shows you the mess they end up with on the drivers side, because they keep the cat right up against the side of the engine, in the stock location. While those may be totally "emissions legal" headers, they are not going to give ou the performance gains of the long tubes.

You need to find someone on here that has the dual-cat MAC's and see if they feel they got a good performance gain. You should also ask them if they had any problems with the excessive heat released by the tubes snaking up over the drivers side valve cover. I know when AS&M made dual-cat headers, they melted everything in the engine compartment with the heat, and AS&M stopped making them. I buddy of mine had the dual-cat AS&M's and even with huge amounts of thermal shielding blanket on everything under the hood, stuff melted, like the oil dipstick handle. He pulled them off and got a set of the extrusion-honed stock manifolds from SLP.

You have to decide what you can live with.

 

Geeessshh i just cant win! One of the reasons im trying to get headers is because my z sounds like a feakin work truck right now, i have an exhaust leak on the pass. side at the head it seems, so if i was going to be in that far i was going the header route, what about a set of mid lenths? Could i run a cat then, or dual cats?