Just got my shortblock back from the shop , and wanting to know what is going to be best before I order.

I will be running 383 LE3/4 with a very possible 200 shot in the future. Should I use studs? I know that some have had issues with leaking from not getting them to seal at the bases.

Motor should be coming together soon people.

 

My shop recommended ARP head bolts which are on my 396 solid roller.

 

IMO if the shortblock is in hand that decision has already been made as the appropriate fastener should have been used when they honed it.

 

True

 

So I need to ask what my builder used in the honing process?(fasteners) Can you please explain further as to why? Are you referring to the torque plate fasteners? What kind of difference would there be?

 

FYI. Using studs on your LT engine in a 4-Gen F-Body can make it more difficult to remove and replace the heads with the engine in the car.

WD

 

Bolts are fine for a SBC doing what 99.9% of us do with these cars.

Rich

 

This is what I have heard over the years too. Studs on the mains are a huge plus IMHO for any upgraded rebuilt motor.

 

yeah my machine shop recommended bolts for the heads and studs for the mains

 

Go with bolts.

I do have studded mains though.

 

Yeah I got studded mains besides the outermost splayed ends. (machinist said that you cant stud the outermost splayed ends) Does that sound right?

I am going to go with bolts, I would also really like to know what 96capricemgr meant however. SnakeatinZ you agreed with him, what does he mean?

 

Yes, with the angle of the outer splayed cap bolt, you couldn't remove the main cap with a stud installed.

WD

 

The need to use the same fasteners that will be used to assemble the engine to mock things up during the boring/honing process is an acknowledgement of the fact that the stresses placed on the block by the clamping force of torquing the heads may vary if studs are substituted for bolts. If the clamping force is varied by changing the type of fasteners, the final shape of the cylinders may be affected and ring seal compromised. While builders frequently favor studs, bolts will work nicely for most applications. In my own case, the need to periodically remove a cylinder head from the motor at the track, in the car, for certification procedures makes studs relatively impractical. I started with bolts and they're still holding the heads on so I suppose it's a moot point in this instance.

 

Thats what I figured, the torque would change the cylinder shape slightly. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

Sounds like you have a very similar setup to me. I have head studs, although I wish I went with bolts. As others have said I dont think they were needed, makes r&r of heads difficult with engine in car, and many complain of leaks. Not worth it IMO.