For a daily driver, I would say the 32mm hollow front bar with the stock rear bar, going with a larger rear bar will make the car harder to recover when the back end steps out which is probably not a good thing in a daily driver. For the panhard, I'd go with an adjustable panhard with poly on the body side and a rod end on the axle side. I wouldn't mess with the LCAs unless you really feel they are worn out. If they are go with either stock or the 1LE units (stock with stiffer bushings). Don't go with poly/poly LCAs as this can cause bind under extreme handling situations.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I just placed an order for the SLP bolt in SFCs and the 1LE panhard rod. Why would an adjustable be better if I am not going to be lowering the car? I thought the adjustable was for recentering the rear after a ride height change?

Shoebox is correct, in that this will be a daily driver. I will not be competing in any road racing events. I do take it to the drag strip every now and then, but that's mainly to see the actual benefits of the mods I've done. So I'm more concerned with durability and streetability and do not want to sacrifice too much ride quality for handling.

That's an interesting comment about using the 32mm 1LE bar with the stock 19mm rear bar. Is rear slide the reason GM used the 21mm rear bar in the '93 version of the 1LE, then went to a 19mm one for '94+ 1LEs?

Thanks again, great info!
Thomas.

 

That would be my guess, but you'd have to talk to someone knowledgeable at GM to find out for sure. I can say that I used the 93 spec 1LE bars on my 95 and there was a very noticeable difference in how hard it was to correct rear slide. You can still correct it, but you have to react much faster and dial in just the right amount of opposite lock or you'll end up spinning the other direction. And yes, I'm speaking from experience on that spinning part. Luckily all my spins were at the racetrack and away from walls or other cars. My 97 Firehawk has the 32mm hollow up front and the stock 19mm rear bar, and it's much easier to correct than the 95 was, even though my 95 had 315s on the rear (Firehawk has 275s all around).

 

I have played a fair bit with suspension stuff in my cars.I had 1le lower control arms put in my taws6 after reading about this supposed binding theory.They were a bit better than stock but the car was still too loose feeling so back in went my poly poly hothckis.I like them much better they are boxed type.I also have hothckis poly poly panhard non adjustable as only have mild drop springs the firehawk slp eibachs.I went with kyb agx shocks due to the need to stiffen it up a bit with my long tube headers which would hit with non adjustable stock type shocks.
I think this binding theory is just that a theory..read about it ,talked to hotchkis and few other suspension companies and they think its bogus as well.I also went with the huge hotchkis front and rear bars on my ta and think they make it handle awesome but again I am talking in the real work on the street and highway not autocrossing.Tires make a huge difference to handling also.I have firehawk sz50 eps,no complaints.
I am planning though a similar setup to what you are saying for my newest car 96 vert.I am planning on kenny brown double diamonds pricey but weld in ..I might go with bolt ins if didnt want to weld to the car.Just use loctite /lockwashers and think you would be fine.I will install my old taws6 sway bar..32mm I am pretty sure and use 1le trans mount,1le panhard and 1le lower control arms since already have them anyway and don't need killer handling with wifes vert.I will also likely use polygraphite bushings in the sway bars front and rear I like them and have them in my 80 ta which was redone with all the polygrahite I could install..no complaints with that either.
I also will throw in a shocktower brace..likely bmr good price on those.I have hotchkis in my 99 but they are pricey and doubt they work any better than bmr ones.