Pulled my engine and when I was connecting everything I found that the green braided ground that runs to the drivers side frame rail was broken. I crimped a new end onto the cable and hooked it up.

I put the black cable in first, then put this one over it and bolted them down.

I turned the key and it melted the connector and the ground has changed colors.

I also found after pulling the motor and inspecting all my wires, that my Crank position sensor wires were all broken. I stripped them back, soldered them, heat shrinked, and then taped them.

I had a problem a while back with my 10amp ignition fuse blowing and I was certain that these wires shorting out was the reason why.

Now I am melting this cable and I can't figure out why. The wire also went from green to purple.

Suggestions? This is the last thing before I can start the car and I'm dying to fire it up.

 

Sounds like you have a 12v+ shorted to ground somewhere.

 

If the braided ground strap is green, it is corroded. Make sure your battery cable grounds are hooked up properly, clean and tight. If they aren't, too much juice will try to go through the braided strap.

 

So you don't think it has anything to do with the cheap connector I crimped on the end? I bought some new heavy duty ones that I'm going to try, then I'll check on the battery. You may be onto something, as the car doesn't start easily like it used to. I figured it was because the battery has been out for 3 weeks.

I left it disconnected all day and decided to drive the car. After searching, I found that a lot of people drive around not even noticing that the braided ground is broken, so I figured it wouldn't hurt too bad.

Car runs like a top and feels great. Oil pressure is great, car runs cool, and there is not a drip from anywhere.

I couldn't be happier. The car runs so much smoother and accelerates like a scared cat. I'm guessing it ran like crap before from the literal pound of carbon that was caked on the pistons and intake. No more running cheap gas for me, it's 93 octane at minimum and from a good gas station.

Car feels fantastic and I couldn't be happier. I put about 20 miles on it so far and will put another 100 or so on before I change the oil.

 

Just buy a new braided strap. Most auto places have them in different lengths.

 

Your are partially correct about the bad crimped on connection. Unless you have a factory style crimper, never rely on crimped on connections, especially with high current. When in doubt, solder them.

The other problem is more likely your starter. As starters wear, the internal windings begin to short against one another and the resistance goes down. Consequently the current they pull goes up. This is most likely what has been giving you fits.

Make sure of a couple of things. The negative terminal has a good connection to the battery and to the ground lug on the fender. Then from there to frame and engine. Then do the same for the positive terminal and it's path as well.

Remember that there are devices through out the car that rely on a properly grounded body and don't go with out the ground for long.

 

I looked at them but I could not figure out where it runs to, so I didn't get it.

Where does it run to? Couldn't find anything online.

 

Yeah after I read the responses I checked the terminals on the battery and the ground was on **** eyed. I wound it back out and put it in straight and tight and it starts right on the money now.

Speedy, I think it was you that told me about the ignition fuse going to 3 sensors and anyone could cause the ignition fuse to blow if there was a short.

Did you read what I said above about the crank position sensor wires being smashed in the back of the engine bay near the firewall? They must have been all touching at some point popping the fuse until it finally just broke all off and settled in a spot where they quit touching. Where it was broken, I'd have never seen unless I pulled the motor. I'm happy I found that and was able solder it up and heatshrink and tape it so that it is like new.

 

It runs to a spot on the LH frame rail, behind the cruise control module.