got quoted $600.00 for intake manifold leak....
got quoted $600.00 for intake manifold leak....
does this sound rediculous to anyone here.....the guy told me 600 bucks parts and labor to fix my leaky intake manifold. just a tiny leak coming from the front left and he wants 600 bones......for parts? huh......anyone else get a quote on this fix before, i had a friend of mine fix it a few weeks back but it wont seal i figured a dealer would warranty the work incase it would leak again but for 600 bucks i dont think so
I had a leak in the rear manifold, and tranny pan leak. I got that fixed, plus engine, and tranny fluid leak fixed for $700. Its a little steep, but looking at your estimate, now it sounds reasonable
That leak takes 2 hours max to fix.
Just do it yourself, with a 9/16" socket, a ratchet, and some extensions you can get the job done. Just take some pics or check shoebox's site for the vacuum connections when you put it back on.
Just do it yourself, with a 9/16" socket, a ratchet, and some extensions you can get the job done. Just take some pics or check shoebox's site for the vacuum connections when you put it back on.
paid 700 at the dealership
biggest mistake ive ever made
realize how easy it was when i did my cam install
this happened when i first bought my car and i didnt know anything about it.....changed real fast when i realized doing it myself is alot cheaper
biggest mistake ive ever made
realize how easy it was when i did my cam install
this happened when i first bought my car and i didnt know anything about it.....changed real fast when i realized doing it myself is alot cheaper
Are you using the little cork gasket pieces on the front and back? If so do it again and toss those pieces, just run a good bead of silicone there instead. Make sure the gasket surfaces are spotless and oil free. Also make sure that when you set the mainfold in place you don't move it around at all, gotta get it lined up first try, which can be a pain with how far back the engine is in these cars. If you have the time torque down the bolts (in sequence ofcourse) and let it sit overnight, then torque em again and button everything up.
find out exactly where its leaking using starter fluid or any other method then take the manifold off the block and manifold are in good shape in that area. if they are o.k. and you are using the correct amount of rtv on the front and back it should seal fine. overall theres nothing the shop can tell about the situation that you shouldnt be able to figure out. id save my money.....buy some nitrous or something instead
Are you using the little cork gasket pieces on the front and back? If so do it again and toss those pieces, just run a good bead of silicone there instead. Make sure the gasket surfaces are spotless and oil free. Also make sure that when you set the mainfold in place you don't move it around at all, gotta get it lined up first try, which can be a pain with how far back the engine is in these cars. If you have the time torque down the bolts (in sequence ofcourse) and let it sit overnight, then torque em again and button everything up.
You can also snap a pencil in half to use as a guide when setting the intake down.
Use a THICK bead (rope like) when putting the RTV down.
Your buddy is just doing it wrong.
..
the gaskets i do at work (chevy dealership) they call for using Rtv around the corners a nice thick laYER should def. do the trick as was mentioned above..also torque them down..might help a little more if you do it in sequence also...dont go get it done do it urself its def. a easy task...good luck
Use lacquer thinner to clean all the surfaces especially where the RTV silicone goes in the valley (manifold, block valley and heads) and ensure it is clean down in the corners by the head-gaskets.
Something else that is “very important.” After you complete the assembly, allow the RTV silicone to “cure-out” for about two to three days before you start the engine. Again, starting the engine before the RTV is completely cured is a major cause of leaks in the valley area.
Also, you can use a “large” flat file to check for and correct any machining flaws on the manifold mating surfaces. The factory machining on my new LT4 manifold didn’t look too good, until I dressed it up with a file. You may have an alignment problem (machining issue) that is the root cause of the leaks.
WD
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2189634
Something else that is “very important.” After you complete the assembly, allow the RTV silicone to “cure-out” for about two to three days before you start the engine. Again, starting the engine before the RTV is completely cured is a major cause of leaks in the valley area.
Also, you can use a “large” flat file to check for and correct any machining flaws on the manifold mating surfaces. The factory machining on my new LT4 manifold didn’t look too good, until I dressed it up with a file. You may have an alignment problem (machining issue) that is the root cause of the leaks.
WD
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2189634
Last edited by The Engineer; Nov 17, 2006 at 06:17 PM.
i have watched him both times so im pretty sure i can take care of this.....its just such a damn pain in the ***......my father wants me to take it to a shop so they will warranty the work so if it leaks again theyll just keeep workin on it
I used cut up chopsticks
I found that the pencils may break if u slip with the intake. You need two people to lay it down. Do a few practice drops first before putting the RTV down. Also let hte RTV sit for 20 minutes before putting it down and DONT use old RTV! the stuff expires after a year or 2 (even though they dont say so on the label).
I found that the pencils may break if u slip with the intake. You need two people to lay it down. Do a few practice drops first before putting the RTV down. Also let hte RTV sit for 20 minutes before putting it down and DONT use old RTV! the stuff expires after a year or 2 (even though they dont say so on the label).


