I heard all the warnings, and I used them anyway. I used what arp told me too, and followed their instructions exactly. I used permatex #2 on all of the threads going into the block, and moly lube on the nuts on the top. After a few miles I noticed a few were leaking slightly, so I put barrs leak into the radiator.

So today I noticed after only a few miles I was at 210 degrees. My new engine has never hit 210, not even in rush hour traffic with the ac running in 110 degree weather. ****.

I pull over and find the radiator is a good gallon low. ****. I check my oil, its green I always run it a little low on the stick since I have a deep pan, and it was over the full mark. I figure I have 5 quarts of oil and 1-2 quarts of water. ****.

So I guess I change my oil and run it and hope I didnt mess up my bearings. Then maybe more stopleak? Has anyone ever put on a lower pressure cap? Im thinking a 12psi cap would help greatly.

I ****ing hate arp. I should have went with bolts.

 

That sucks! Flush out that water before you try to run it. Get a drying agent in there to pull the water out after you flush it too.

 

Wow that's awful man. I know it sucks but it might be worth just going back in and replacing those studs. Hopefully the engine isn't toast

 

I just drained the oil and pulled the valve covers. Oil was a nasty green color, and there was milky crap on the v/c's. I ran my ewp for about 30 min and saw no leaks.

Tomorrow I plan on taking an oil sample in for analysis (hoping for coolant but no metal), and pressurizing the cooling system for a while to check for leaks.

 

jeez man.. I will definetly steer clear of arp head studs. hopefully you caught it before it did some damage

 

With all the trouble people seem to have with them, I don't know why they bother. Bolts work fine.

 

I bought arp bolts just for this reason mentioned. Hope everything gets fixed up!

 

With the cylinder pressure I am running I have to run studs. Took me forever to get them to seal. Stick with bolts if you have less than 650 rwhp.

 

Josh, question for you. How exactly did you put the heads on? Were the studs put in after the head was sitting on top? Reason I ask is I have seen many times with claims of the studs being the culprit when it was actually how everything was installed. I set my gasket and head on, then run the stud in. I have seen way to many times sealant pushed up around the stud, and between the gasket and head causing the head gasket to leak due to studs being installed first, then the gasket, followed by the head.

 

Wow, if Tony Shepherd has problems with leaking studs, I should just give up the battle right now Only reason I ran them is because I will spray a 200 shot on top of everything one day. That will put me at 650rwhp.

Thats how I installed them, studs first. Thats how I install all studs. How could that have anything to do with it if you clean up excess sealant before putting the gaskets and heads on? I could see sealant getting on the gasket easier if you install them after the gaskets and heads. The excess has nowhere to go.

 

with the risk of sounding stupid, why would studs leak more than bolts? it would seem if sealant is used and the studs are installed to where the shoulder seats they should seal. with either studs or bolts the threads would still have to seal. this motor is my first with studs so im curious more than anything else.

 

I had no trouble with mine. I installed the studs in the block with Permatex sealant, after running a tap into the holes and flushing with brake clean and blowing out with air. I wiped off excess sealant from around each stud, and let them sit a coupkle hours before installing heads.

Maybe both wiping off excess sealant and letting them sit was helpful.

 

I have never had a problem with head studs. If they are installed correctly they will not leak. Install studs first! then gaskets and heads. I think to many people get in a hurry and either don't pay attention to detail and/or don't use enough or the correct sealant. Its crazy for you guys to blame ARP.

 

I am not blaming ARP at all. I have seen many LT1 owners have problems with studs. I used every method out there and only could get them so seal with some special military aviation stuff that is not available to the public. I think my block twists and moves so much at WOT it causes them to leak.

 

So Ive pressurized the cooling system and cant find a leak. Its dry around all the stud nuts. I left the pan drain plug out too, no water came out. The pressure does bleed down, but the pressure tester is not sealing well on the radiator and is leaking there.

Ill get my oil analisys back tomorrow, but they wont give a water %, just if there is water and I already know that. All Im looking for is the metal content. I saw no shavings, which isnt bad considering I only have 1500 miles on the thing.

I guess Im gonna have to fill it back up with fresh oil and run it. I hope it isnt a head gasket that only leaks when its hot.