Going LS2 to LT1
Going LS2 to LT1
Insurance on a LS2 GTO is nuts... So i want a way to get around that. Woke up and thought to myself. whats a good strong motor i can push to the limit like my 6.0 and still go fast and have a good time. Started looking at LT1s, they are extreamly cheap, and extreamly easy to mod i hear from several owners. So hears what i need to know guys. Im looking to get to about say, 330-340 rwhp witch should put me on the same numbers as my 6.0 was at 342rwhp i know the feeling of that speed and would enjoy doing it in a 94 Camaro. what is the CHEAPEST, most STREETABLE set up i should go with and the PRICE of each part along with labor "if you know i dont got a clue"
Another question is 383 and NOS. how much is a good NOS set up and how much of a punch can a LT1 take? Can it even handle NOS on a stock block, and if not what do i need for a 75 shot to work and not screw up my car?
And to the 383. if i do this there is no limit to HP numbers ill try to reach. how much would it cost to stroke to a 383 with labor included for those who have done it.
Thanks for any help. Going old school LT1 is going to be fun with all these new 35k plus rice burners on the street. going to teach em what a 14 year old LT1 can dish out
Another question is 383 and NOS. how much is a good NOS set up and how much of a punch can a LT1 take? Can it even handle NOS on a stock block, and if not what do i need for a 75 shot to work and not screw up my car?
And to the 383. if i do this there is no limit to HP numbers ill try to reach. how much would it cost to stroke to a 383 with labor included for those who have done it.
Thanks for any help. Going old school LT1 is going to be fun with all these new 35k plus rice burners on the street. going to teach em what a 14 year old LT1 can dish out
330-340 is easy with some mild head porting and a cam similar to a CC503. Lloyd Elliott ported my heads and did a great job, I'd suggest looking at his website: http://www.eportworks.com/
You can get a nice heads/cam package from him, and you can't beat the price.
You can get away with a 75 shot on a stock motor ok. If you are going to build a 383, the price is going to go up quite a bit compared to a H/C only setup. If you are going to stroke the motor, you are going to completely rebuild it. I'm working on a 355 build and it's putting me at $3-4k for the motor alone, plus other supporting mods. If it's built right, an LT1 can take a lot of spray, more than you would ever use.
Showing ricers how it's done is fun. Showing ricers how it's done on the street is lame. Don't be that guy. You only encourage (and partake in) retarded behavior when you race on the street.
You can get a nice heads/cam package from him, and you can't beat the price.
You can get away with a 75 shot on a stock motor ok. If you are going to build a 383, the price is going to go up quite a bit compared to a H/C only setup. If you are going to stroke the motor, you are going to completely rebuild it. I'm working on a 355 build and it's putting me at $3-4k for the motor alone, plus other supporting mods. If it's built right, an LT1 can take a lot of spray, more than you would ever use.
Showing ricers how it's done is fun. Showing ricers how it's done on the street is lame. Don't be that guy. You only encourage (and partake in) retarded behavior when you race on the street.
Hey i resent that old school comment! 
Of course to me, the LT1 is best motor ever cause im comparing it to a 305 TPI. The only thing i can say, is if you do get one, get a 95 and up vented opti style. I wish i did. Im so paranoid of getting this thing wet it drives me nuts!. Like the person above me im also working on a 355 build and it puts a big dent in your pocket so you should expect the same, most likley more with a 383.
Good luck!
Jake

Of course to me, the LT1 is best motor ever cause im comparing it to a 305 TPI. The only thing i can say, is if you do get one, get a 95 and up vented opti style. I wish i did. Im so paranoid of getting this thing wet it drives me nuts!. Like the person above me im also working on a 355 build and it puts a big dent in your pocket so you should expect the same, most likley more with a 383.
Good luck!
Jake
Insurance on a LS2 GTO is nuts... So i want a way to get around that. Woke up and thought to myself. whats a good strong motor i can push to the limit like my 6.0 and still go fast and have a good time. Started looking at LT1s, they are extreamly cheap, and extreamly easy to mod i hear from several owners. So hears what i need to know guys. Im looking to get to about say, 330-340 rwhp witch should put me on the same numbers as my 6.0 was at 342rwhp i know the feeling of that speed and would enjoy doing it in a 94 Camaro. what is the CHEAPEST, most STREETABLE set up i should go with and the PRICE of each part along with labor "if you know i dont got a clue"
Another question is 383 and NOS. how much is a good NOS set up and how much of a punch can a LT1 take? Can it even handle NOS on a stock block, and if not what do i need for a 75 shot to work and not screw up my car?
And to the 383. if i do this there is no limit to HP numbers ill try to reach. how much would it cost to stroke to a 383 with labor included for those who have done it.
Thanks for any help. Going old school LT1 is going to be fun with all these new 35k plus rice burners on the street. going to teach em what a 14 year old LT1 can dish out
Another question is 383 and NOS. how much is a good NOS set up and how much of a punch can a LT1 take? Can it even handle NOS on a stock block, and if not what do i need for a 75 shot to work and not screw up my car?
And to the 383. if i do this there is no limit to HP numbers ill try to reach. how much would it cost to stroke to a 383 with labor included for those who have done it.
Thanks for any help. Going old school LT1 is going to be fun with all these new 35k plus rice burners on the street. going to teach em what a 14 year old LT1 can dish out

If you get a great deal on a 94 year model, don't worry, they are easy to change over if you are doing a cam, just use a 95 style cam, get the 95 timing cover and get a vented opti, hell I got one at a salvage yard for $50 and been racing with it for 3 years now.
I am seeing 370rwhp with porting, cam, headers, RR, computer reprogram, with this power the stock clutch will not last, be prepared to replace.
Good luck
I am seeing 370rwhp with porting, cam, headers, RR, computer reprogram, with this power the stock clutch will not last, be prepared to replace.
Good luck
Full exhaust and induction mods will typically net around 280-290rwhp
Between 330 and 360 rwhp is easily doable with full exhaust and induction, cam and valvetrain, and a good tune. No head porting really neccesary at all to acheive this level of performance.
A GOOD set of ported heads, a more agressive cam, all the bolt-ons, and a good tune will net you over 400rwhp, typically around 405-425.
What you'll make with a 383 really depends on the setup, but a well thought out and put together hydraulic cammed NA stroker with a set of killer heads can make over 450rwhp, but most around here seem to make somewhat less than that.
A full-boat SR cammed 355 or stroker with the best of everything in the heads and valvetrain can make up to around 500rwhp NA. 500rwhp is pretty rare air for a NA LT1 though, and it's only been done a few times that I know of. Most of the time it involves things like swapping out the factory MAF and PCM for an aftermarket system in order to remove restrictions and be able to tune above 7k rpm. But that's a whole nother story.
Between 330 and 360 rwhp is easily doable with full exhaust and induction, cam and valvetrain, and a good tune. No head porting really neccesary at all to acheive this level of performance.
A GOOD set of ported heads, a more agressive cam, all the bolt-ons, and a good tune will net you over 400rwhp, typically around 405-425.
What you'll make with a 383 really depends on the setup, but a well thought out and put together hydraulic cammed NA stroker with a set of killer heads can make over 450rwhp, but most around here seem to make somewhat less than that.
A full-boat SR cammed 355 or stroker with the best of everything in the heads and valvetrain can make up to around 500rwhp NA. 500rwhp is pretty rare air for a NA LT1 though, and it's only been done a few times that I know of. Most of the time it involves things like swapping out the factory MAF and PCM for an aftermarket system in order to remove restrictions and be able to tune above 7k rpm. But that's a whole nother story.
Last edited by Z97LT1; Apr 17, 2008 at 11:07 AM.
I have a total of 8k in my T/A which includes the car and all mods, the work i did myself. The car makes 370whp on the motor and has a 150hp shot of nitrous. The short block is stock with Internals with Arp bolts and studs. Going to the track in a couple weeks but I'm expecting mid/high 11's on Drag radials (if I can remember how to launch at the track) Full coverage insurance on my car is ~140/mth with a 27 y/o driver and 1 point on my record. Definately a platfrom you can go fast on for relatively cheap.
330-340 is easy with some mild head porting and a cam similar to a CC503. Lloyd Elliott ported my heads and did a great job, I'd suggest looking at his website: http://www.eportworks.com/
You can get a nice heads/cam package from him, and you can't beat the price.
You can get away with a 75 shot on a stock motor ok. If you are going to build a 383, the price is going to go up quite a bit compared to a H/C only setup. If you are going to stroke the motor, you are going to completely rebuild it. I'm working on a 355 build and it's putting me at $3-4k for the motor alone, plus other supporting mods. If it's built right, an LT1 can take a lot of spray, more than you would ever use.
Showing ricers how it's done is fun. Showing ricers how it's done on the street is lame. Don't be that guy. You only encourage (and partake in) retarded behavior when you race on the street.
You can get a nice heads/cam package from him, and you can't beat the price.
You can get away with a 75 shot on a stock motor ok. If you are going to build a 383, the price is going to go up quite a bit compared to a H/C only setup. If you are going to stroke the motor, you are going to completely rebuild it. I'm working on a 355 build and it's putting me at $3-4k for the motor alone, plus other supporting mods. If it's built right, an LT1 can take a lot of spray, more than you would ever use.
Showing ricers how it's done is fun. Showing ricers how it's done on the street is lame. Don't be that guy. You only encourage (and partake in) retarded behavior when you race on the street.
now the last question. what would this add up to price wise "take a guess" i dont got a CLUE were to get parts for a LT1 besides ebay and i dont trust them to much
30/36 lb. injectors, 58 MM T.B., 1 ¾ LT’s, no cats, good tuning
there is all kinds of places, look in the vendor area and also summit and jegs........
Cost for all the parts ranges depending on quality and/or reputation. I can't tell you how much installation would be because I do all my own work. It really isn't that hard to install most of this stuff.
As to your list, you don't need bigger injectors with those other mods so save some coin there. The 58mm throttle body isn't going to get you much either.
The other mods you listed are a good place to start along with a cold air kit. 1.6RR's (~$250) are also a good bump for not that large of an investment. I'd recommend upgrading the springs at the same time. You can pick up LT4 springs for $40 new.
With the mods in my sig I made 314.9RWHP SAE and ran consistantly in the mid 12's. The only weight reduction was the spare and jack.
I wish my insurance was that cheap. I pay $120 a month for liability. I guess that is the price you be for being a 17 year old with a V8.
between that and a 1994-95 Camaro would be significant, because a newer
car has a higher replacement value.


