is there anything anyone can share to make this job easier or any helpful hints??

 

Label everything and stay organized. Other than that...its real easy just time consuming. Make sure the block surface is clean and all the old gasket is off before you slap the new heads on. I can't really think of anything else off the top of my head but if you're unsure of something while doing the swap, consult a Chilton's/Haynes or come to us on the board.

 

coolant crossover tube on the back of the heads
it is easiest IMO too have a friend help you lift both heads off simultaneously and then remove the crossover pipe too reinstall it on the new heads (reverse process for install)

buy new head bolts
buy thread sealer
clean all surfaces best as possible
dimple and or score (dont go all the way to the edges, stay in the center of it) the front and back of the block intake mating surfaces. this helps in sealing, gives the RTV something too seat into.
drain the coolant out of the block. otherwise you'll have a huge mess and cylinders full of it

 

lol, took the words right out of my mouth. The steam pipe is a major PITA. I ended up cutting mine in half and grinding off the bolt heads. The newer banjo bolt design will eliminate needing to do this. Mine was on a 94 LT1 with the more shallow banjo bolt heads. Stripped right off.

 

Digital photos of details help you get the little things back in the right place like all the intake brackets, cable routings, vacuum lines, etc.

 

where to drain coolant out of the block? do i have to do this cause of the coolant pipe behind the heads ?

 

Only special tool you will need is the one to disconnect the fuel lines. They only cost a few dollars at local car parts stores. And a puller/installed for the crank pulley. Do not use a hammer to reinstall the hub! Hammering on it could cause serious issues like a spun bearing!

Every time I removed the heads I just bought new bolts and seals for the cross over pipe. For a few bucks you reduce the risk of a leak.

To drain the collant I remove one of the head bolts between the valve springs and use a syphon pump to get the collant out of the block. Saves having to clean up a mess when you pull the head.

Be carefull when you pull the timing chain cover not to damage it, or the seals. Again, I replaced the Opti and timing chain seals because I hate those little leaks.

And like everyone else said clean everything well, and make sure you put sealer on the head bolts that pass into the water jacket and the water pump bolts.

 

No, you don't have to, but like he said in the earlier post, you will get coolant in the cylinders if you don't! Try researching and then re-read it all before you tear into the car...

Spend $15 on the Haynes manual and it'll tell you everything you need to know. You can buy one at Autozone.

 

the crank pulley shouldnt come off during a head swap correct? you just did so to replace some seals??? just trying to narrow it down cause i hate working on the front of the motor .

 

no, you need too drain the coolant because it flows thru the heads. if not, when taking head bolts out...it will spill everywhere
there is a coolant drain on both sides of the block. passenger side is where the knock sensor is, un plug the KS and take the coolant drain bolt out. driver side is just the drain bolt. have catch cans ready lol
kind of a PITA too get too both of them just have patience
it is a good idea too find the part# for the banjo bolts for the crossover pipe and buy new ones (should be able too get the # from shoebox or off his website)

and you dont need too remove the crank hub/pulley if only doing a head swap

fuel lines, you dont need too disconnect them.
just undo the 4 bolts holding the rails too the intake. remove injectors from rails (keep an eye on the clips and o-rings!). there will be enough slack too gently rotate it all in one piece out of the way over to the drivers side of the car and rest it on the cowl area

 

Oh God no... and people wonder why bearings get spun after doing head/cam swaps...
Dimpling or scoring the block is an absolute NO NO and completely unessecary. All you have to do is put a healthy bead around the mating sufraces from block to intake, set the intake down STRAIGHT onto the block, torque bolts in sequence and let it cure for a few hours before attempting to start.
The banjo bolts on the back of the heads for the pipes are 15mm. Use a Snap-On or equivalent if you try to get it while heads are still on the car. If not then you can either try vice grips and a soft hammer or you can remove both cylinder heads. If bolts are still stubborn get a carpenter hammer and tap on the bolts a few times. This can loosen them up to where you can turn them.
If you screw up the bolts then they are fairly cheap to replace.
Connectors don't have to be numbered as they are all individual.
That's about all I can think of now of peculiararity.

 

I have read that alot of head swaps lead to spun bearings.I have also had this happen to me.A few thousand miles later and boom it happens no signs.I think they said its from the two different metals pressure and when you remove the heads it releaves the pressure on the block causing the bearings to spin in time.Just a warning

 

How could that cause a spun bearing?

 

Sorry everyone! I was thinking heads and CAM swap. Senior moment!

Be hitting the hub against the crank you run the risk of damaging the bearings. You always want to use a install tool to drawal/press the hub onto the crank.

 

spun bearing? you're kidding right? its not like you're going at it with an Axe
i guess my motor is an exception then??

you can take an Awl and punch small dimples all along the the mating surface

did it too mine and i have NO intake leaks and have yet too spin a bearing in over 8,000 miles now