LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Goal - Street/Strip LT1 - DD

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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 04:15 PM
  #1  
Rob Pizzuti's Avatar
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From: Rhode Island
Goal - Street/Strip LT1 - DD

Hey guys

I still consider myself just a computer researching newb who knows a little bit about cars, so i figured i would come here for help and advice.

My car is a 94 Z with 105k miles..she has her problems but they will all be fixed before i go any further with modifications..

Right now i have a KandN cold air, hooker longtubes, and a full true dual system over the axle.

After i finish fixing all of my problems (skips, small leaks, brakes) i want to modify the car to be a daily driver but also a street/strip car that will give a mustang GT or even a cobra a run for its money.

The car is an A4 with 3.23 rear gears (22-2300 @ 70mph?)

I have some ideas on where to go after this with my car, but i would like some help also.. this is what i was thinking..

-computer tune
-cam setup (cam, rockers, springs)
-throttle body


what else should i do to the motor? i also would like to do a stall.

thanks, i will appreciate all responses!
Old Apr 30, 2008 | 04:23 PM
  #2  
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From: angier; find it
mods in sig worked good for me...remember those times are on heavy zr1 rims


pride
Old Apr 30, 2008 | 04:46 PM
  #3  
Rob Pizzuti's Avatar
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that looks pretty good man, really fast.
Old Apr 30, 2008 | 04:57 PM
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gears and a high quality stall (yank) would be great for the track. a tranny cooler was the best purchase i made for my 4l60e. id recommend one. also, suspension modifications are ideal for traction. look into bmr sub-frame connectors, lower control arms, and an adjustable torque arm.

sam
Old Apr 30, 2008 | 09:44 PM
  #5  
350pride's Avatar
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From: angier; find it
if you do a stall, get ready to put in a new tranny... 6 months of stall and cam, and it was all she wrote.

I would try and find a deal on a transmission w/ stall converter and just buy both at same time. Yeah the initial cost will be higher, but it will save you money and headaches in the long run, bc once you fry that tranny your not gonna want to reuse that stall again...and a tranny rebuild back to stock is like a grand.

look at it like this tq converter: $400-800 depending on brand

tq converter installation fee: $200-$400

versus

new tranny with tq converter with 1 yr guarantee (holds 700 rwhp): $1800-2000

tranny install: $400

if I could have done it again i would have waited, also I would have gone with a slightly bigger cam.

Just my two cents.

And unless you have T-tops I would only go with LCA's for my suspension mods.

pride
Old Apr 30, 2008 | 10:47 PM
  #6  
Rob Pizzuti's Avatar
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i do have tee-tops, i was looking at suspension stuff as well, my tranny has some life left in it but i guess your right i should find a new tranny with a converter.
Old Apr 30, 2008 | 10:50 PM
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An aftermarket torque arm would be a good investment.
Old May 1, 2008 | 12:50 AM
  #8  
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Don't you have to have a stall for certain cams?

Mite want to do the stall first.
Old May 1, 2008 | 04:20 AM
  #9  
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Depending on how streetable you want it...

LT4 hotcam is very streetable but will produce some good numbers

CC-306 is a little rougher, needs to be tuned

As for a tune, PCM for less and MadZ28 do great work. If your not worried about sucking up some 93 octane note that to them and they will tune your car to run "93+ only"

A transmission (rebuilt with a shift kit and new internals) should run around 960-1300 for an application under 500HP (you shouldn't see more then that at the flywheel with your application). A stall I would rec 2800-3400 and 3.73 gear ratio in the rear. (2800 would be best for a DD) 2800 for a highway application, 3400 for city. some use 4000's but that has to be nutz driving on a highway...RPMS are super high...

LCA's are a MUST! Relocation brackets are known to shave .10 off your 1/4. Subframe connectors will keep your chasis from body flex (because of t-tops) these will help save your 10bolt on hard launches. (But start putting some cash away for a 12 bolt...)

Best bolt ons in my mind are a CAI and LT Headers. Everything else you could keep stock technically without any problems.

If your doing this in one shot that would make a great streetable beast. If your doing one mod at a time, i would start with a CAI then Headers then trans,stall,cam in one shot.
Old May 1, 2008 | 05:58 AM
  #10  
Rob Pizzuti's Avatar
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thanks for the help guys
Old May 1, 2008 | 06:11 AM
  #11  
2000GTP's Avatar
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Alot of it will come down to what you want to spend on the car. A properly set up cam swap can easily tally you around a grand. Suspension mods add up very quickly as well. IMO, the best bang for the buck power adder would be nitrous.
Old May 1, 2008 | 09:02 AM
  #12  
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spray is the best bang for your buck, but i would do the suspension first you can pick up a few .10 and still have a basically stock motor then work on the tranny then get into the heads and cam. you can port the stock heads and intake for some decent power gains with a good dd friendly cam you could have a nice streetable car. that can run good times at the track. Also grab up some drag radials for the track
Old May 1, 2008 | 02:49 PM
  #13  
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From: angier; find it
I had to get a stall with my hotcam...the thing kept trying to pull through the brakes.

As for the stall....the first one I had was a 3600 and I loved it...and yes it was in my daily driver.

Also i think everyone has forgot about that rearend. Once you start hooking on that stock rearend, that is going to be the next thing to go.

I had one wheel of fury all last year, and it really sucks not going any where off the line. So go ahead and plan on a differential.

Im running a detroit tru-trac...$340...and its been giving me 1.7x 60' with nitto 555's with stock gears, 3000 stall, and 320 rwhp

pride
Old May 1, 2008 | 03:09 PM
  #14  
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1.6 rr, springs, etc. 400
Gear, master intall kit(shims, bearings, etc) + install 400-500
pcm tune. 100
sub frames and lca's. 250

That shave off .4-.5 to your et and gain you 2-3mph.
As for the trans and converter, listen to the guys above.(im a m6 guy)
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