ChickenScreamer94

I just started to rip stuff off my IM to fix the leak that is so common. Well I went to take the map sensor connector off and it fuxing broke! I barely even push it and the connector snapped. I guess i will have to zip tie it. Not onlythat, i cant get the brake booster line off. I thought that would be super easy-it is glued on there! I have the TBoff and half the injector harness things off. I still have to disconnect the fuel lines and i am getting nervous about breaking that. I feel i can do this but i am getting this overwhelming feeling that I am screwing myself over. Any words of encouragement?

AsianSensation

Just take your time. You'll be okay. For me, the biggest PITA job was getting the fuel lines off, even with a fuel disconnect tool.

ChickenScreamer94

I still cannot get the brake booster line off. It is on there real tight. I am afraid to pull on it too much since it is so old. What should I do? Also, where exactly do i "pry up" on the intake in the front? With the RTV i cant see a pry point. Is it on the left, right, middle?

You know what depresses me the most? Some guy in another post got his whole intake off in 45 MINS! I have spent 3 hours and havent got all the crap off it yet

Z95m6

just put a slit in the side of the hose where it goes on it will slide right off. Then you will have to shorten the hose to get rid of the side you cut. Don't worry about the maf plug about every car i have ever seen has it broke except mine.

notstock4long

You can just get a replacement hose too for that brake booster, it is 5/8" I believe. I broke some sensors also when I did me engine swap. Oh, make sure you have all the bolts off before you start to pry. Some are studs that also have a nut on them, and I once spent all day trying to get mine off with a bolt still on. I think good pry spot is between the head and intake, on the drivers side I think. You could try using a shim and pounding it in, then you won't have any metal on metal contact.

And for the injectors, those fuels lines suck, and you need the tool, but the tool is plastic, so I wouldn't worry to much about breaking the fuel lines. But then just undo the four fuel rail bolts and pull the whole assembly off, with the injectors still on.

ChickenScreamer94

OMG! Replies-Thank you so much I had never thought of the making a slit....very good idea

Another thing. My intake gaskets came with eight little O-rings. I assume these are for the injectors correct? THe fuel rail disconnect tool set I bought looks like a PITA and I was wondering if it is easier to remove the fuel rails and set them aside or just disconnect it and leave em on? sorry for all the questions i am such an idiot though.

Oh do i have to disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line?

mike95z28

You think you're special? That friggin thing broke on me on every car that I've done the IM fix on. I'm guessing the constant heating and cooling from the engine puts major wear on that thing 1/8th of an inch piece of plastic.

Remove the clamp that is holding to the intake. Clamp it and pull it back rather. From there.. get your hand on the booster line and start twisting. That was rather easy to get off.

Bleed the pressure from the lines with a towel. Trust me you won't break it. Injector harnesses are insanely easy to take off. See the metal clip? Push up from the bottom part. It will spread the clip.. from there.. lift up on the harness.. comes right off.

All vacuum lines going to the intake will be disconnected. Those o-rings that you got.. you can use them. I wouldn't recommend it if your current ones look fine. Yeah.. you can leave the fuel rails on the car.. I never really thought of that. Just remember to plug the hard lines on the fuel rails after you disconnect the fuel lines.. otherwise nice smelling raw fuel will come spilling out of those two lines. IMO though.. remove the fuel rails. Don't torque them back on the intake when finished unless you plan on breaking those fragile bolts.

colorchange96

dont get discouraged yet. wait untill you use a BFH to remove your spark plugs becuase your pissed at the LT install and then you go to dyno it and the brakes catch on fire. welcome to my world.

shoebox

IMO, use the small Lisle tool to disconnect the fuel pipes and leave the rail and injectors on. Way easier.

Don't cut your hose. After releasing the clamp, it will come off if you twist, pull and carefully use a screwdriver at the end of the hose to pry a little. Once it gets started it will come right off.

Janny

Look at it this way:

You may break a few things that a pro wouldn't, but you'll save more than enough money to pay for those things. You'll probably save enough money that you can afford to go out and buy a few special tools to help the job go easier. You may even save enough money to do another small mod. You will also gain the knowledge that comes with doing it yourself, which you can then apply the next time you take off your IM. Like when you do the cam.

Transamdriver

A few special tools eh? I might as well open up my own shop after my cam install.

As for the knowledge, thanks to Asian Sensation I have learned a lot about cam timing.

Moore94Z

Whatever you do, don't do that. GM put a pry spot in front, on the left hand side. The lip on the intake overlaps aove the water pump, and you can put a pry bar right there and pry between the block and the manifold. Don't try prying between the head and the intake, if its stuck on you're going to gouge the gasket surface on the head, the manifold, or both.

I wouldn't worry about the MAP plug, mine's been broken for 2 years. Just make sure its all the way in and you'll be fine. The fuel lines are a PITA but if you can get the little plastic ring disconnect tools they come off pretty easy.

ChickenScreamer94

Well, 8 hours and almost all the accessories for the manifold are off . I only have my fuel lines on still. BTW, I had to cut the brake booster line, and I did have the clamp off LOL. I bought the "OEM" fuel line disconnect tool (ie not lisle, call ALL over town for it, no one has) And I can get the tool up in there but it does not let the line release. It looks just like the lisle though I have pulled back the rubber boot and tried to pull up and twist. It just aint cutting it. At one point it got loose (would move 1/4 of an inch, but I wouldnt come off still) How much better is the genuine GM tool? I spent an hour and still cant get that SOB off.

I was going to pull the whole fuel rail as a unit but it if I do I will have to fish it through a wiring harness. It looks like maybe my car has had this fix done before?

Thanks for being patient with my stupid questions

slashz28

ok my friend i went through the same crap as you using the disconnect tool, couldnt get the f**k to work. so... i pulled out a couple of the injectors , put rags under to catch the fuel, and just pulled the whole rail back, turned it upside down and left it on the drivers side inner fender (where the shock tower is). MUCH easier imo hth

ChickenScreamer94

I am not trying to beat a dead horse, but the reasone I wasn't going to pull the fuel rails is b/c there is a wiring harness in there so that compared to everyone else's car i will have to somehow find a way to pull the rails through this harness that has been molested by someone who cant put something back together the way they found it. I am going to work on it in the morning. The most annoying thing is my Dad telling me, "get it out of the garage soon, I need my car in there. I don't like it sitting outside." what a goober